Laboratoire de Chimie et Biotechnologie des Produits Naturels (CHEMBIOPRO), Université de La Réunion, La Réunion, France.
Conservatoire Botanique des Mascarins, Saint Leu, La Réunion, France.
J Ethnobiol Ethnomed. 2023 Mar 25;19(1):8. doi: 10.1186/s13002-023-00580-w.
Proven toxicity and environmental burdens caused by artificial dyes have motivated dyeing industries to turn to natural alternatives. Plant-based dyestuffs are an interesting group of alternative crops. Reunion Island located in the Indian Ocean is the only European region in the southern hemisphere. It has a great number of assets to find new molecules in the abundant plant biodiversity. However, the dye-producing plants diversity in this island had not been documented to date.
The assessment of the Reunion Island's plant biodiversity through the "PLANTIN" project allowed us to establish here the first ethnobotanical inventory of plants growing on Reunion Island which may have promising properties as a new alternative source of dyes or colorants for the industries. First, an ethnobotanical survey focused on the uses of plants traditionally used in dyeing was conducted on local stakeholders. Then, the importance of different criteria (e.g., endemicity, accessibility and cultivability, plant organs used for the extraction, industrial interests of the species, etc.) has been considered to establish a classification method of the species, to finally select the most interesting plants which have been further harvested and investigated for their coloring property and dyeing application on natural fibers.
The results showed that local people have accumulated traditional knowledge of dyeing plants, but that this approach had been discontinued in Reunion. The uses of 194 plant species potentially rich in dyes or pigments, belonging to 72 different families, with diverse botanical status (endemic, native, introduced or alien-invasive species) have been recorded. Then, 43 species were harvested and their coloring property were investigated. It demonstrated that dyes extracted from promising species, e.g., Terminalia bentzoe, Weinmannia tinctoria, Thespesia populnea, Erythroxylum laurifolium, Morinda citrifolia, Leea guinensis, Ochrosia borbonica, Danais fragrans, Terminalia cattapa, Casuarina equisetifolia, and Coccoloba uvifera, amongst others, could be used as new textile dyes. Their efficacy in the wool and cotton dyeing has been successfully demonstrated here.
These plant-based dyestuffs showed promising coloring properties with different shades that could meet industrial application requirement. It's an area that could promote local cultural inheritance, create opportunity for business and farmers, and that can make a significant contribution to preserving endangered native species by supporting reforestation schemes. Additional researches are in progress to evaluate the safety of these plant-based colored extracts, their chemical composition and biological activities.
人工染料的毒性和环境负担已促使染色行业转向天然替代品。植物染料是一类有趣的替代作物。留尼汪岛位于印度洋,是南半球唯一的欧洲地区。它拥有丰富的植物生物多样性,有大量的资源可以从中寻找新的分子。然而,迄今为止,该岛的植物染料生产植物多样性尚未有记录。
通过“PLANTIN”项目对留尼汪岛植物生物多样性的评估,使我们得以在这里建立了关于留尼汪岛植物的第一个民族植物学清单,这些植物可能具有作为染料或颜料的新替代来源的有前景的特性,以供行业使用。首先,对当地利益相关者进行了一项关于传统上用于染色的植物用途的民族植物学调查。然后,考虑了不同标准(例如,特有性、可及性和可栽培性、用于提取的植物器官、物种的工业利益等)的重要性,以建立一种分类方法,最终选择最有趣的植物进行进一步收获,并研究其在天然纤维上的着色性能和染色应用。
结果表明,当地人积累了丰富的植物染料传统知识,但这种方法在留尼汪已经停止。记录了 194 种可能富含染料或颜料的植物物种,属于 72 个不同的科,具有不同的植物学地位(特有种、本地种、引入种或外来入侵种)。然后,收获了 43 种植物并研究了它们的着色性能。结果表明,从有前途的物种中提取的染料,例如Terminalia bentzoe、Weinmannia tinctoria、Thespesia populnea、Erythroxylum laurifolium、Morinda citrifolia、Leea guinensis、Ochrosia borbonica、Danais fragrans、Terminalia cattapa、Casuarina equisetifolia 和 Coccoloba uvifera 等,可以用作新的纺织染料。在这里成功地证明了它们在羊毛和棉的染色中的功效。
这些植物染料具有不同色调的有前景的着色性能,可以满足工业应用的要求。这是一个可以促进当地文化传承、为企业和农民创造机会的领域,通过支持造林计划,也可以为保护濒危本地物种做出重大贡献。目前正在进行更多的研究,以评估这些植物基彩色提取物的安全性、它们的化学成分和生物活性。