Raafi Sk Mohammad, Arju Sharfun Nahar, Asaduzzaman Md, Khan Hasibul Haque, Rokonuzzaman Md
Department of Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka, 1208, Bangladesh.
Heliyon. 2023 Apr 5;9(4):e15236. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e15236. eCollection 2023 Apr.
Eye-catching, aesthetic fashions often suppress its untold dark story of unsustainable processing including hazardous wet treatment. Considering the risks imposed by conventional cotton scouring and following the trend of scouring with enzymes, this study was undertaken to evaluate the bioscouring of cotton knit fabric involving saponin-enriched soapnut as a natural surfactant, applied from a bath requiring a few chemicals and gentle processing conditions, contributing to the eco-friendliness. The proposed application was compared to synthetic detergent engaged enzymatic scouring as well as the classic scouring with Sodium hydroxide. A cellulolytic pectate lyase enzyme (0.5%-0.8% o.w.f) was applied at 55 °C for 60 min at pH 5-5.5 with varying surfactant concentrations. A low concentration of soapnut extract (1 g/L to 2 g/L) was found sufficient to assist in the removal of non-cellulosic impurities from the cotton fabric after bioscouring with 0.5% o.w.f. enzyme, leading to good hydrophilicity indicated by an average wetting time of 4.86 s at the expense of 3.1%-3.8% weight loss. The scoured fabrics were further dyed with 1% o.w.f. reactive dye to observe the dyeing performance. The treated samples were characterized in terms of weight loss, wettability, bursting strength, whiteness index, and color value. The proposed application confronted level dyeing and the ratings for color fastness to washing and rubbing were 4-5 for all of the samples scoured enzymatically with soapnut. The study was also statistically analyzed and concluded.
引人注目的时尚美观往往掩盖了其背后不可持续加工的黑暗故事，其中包括有害的湿法处理。考虑到传统棉织物精练带来的风险，并顺应酶精练的趋势，本研究旨在评估棉针织物的生物精练，该方法使用富含皂苷的无患子作为天然表面活性剂，在只需少量化学品和温和加工条件的浴液中进行，有助于实现生态友好。将所提出的应用方法与合成洗涤剂参与的酶精练以及经典的氢氧化钠精练进行了比较。在55℃、pH值为5 - 5.5的条件下，使用不同浓度的表面活性剂，施加0.5%-0.8%（owf）的纤维素分解果胶酸裂解酶60分钟。发现在用0.5%（owf）的酶进行生物精练后，低浓度的无患子提取物（1g/L至2g/L）足以协助去除棉织物中的非纤维素杂质，以3.1%-3.8%的重量损失为代价，平均润湿时间为4.86秒，表明具有良好的亲水性。将精练后的织物进一步用1%（owf）的活性染料染色，以观察染色性能。对处理后的样品进行了失重、润湿性、破裂强度、白度指数和颜色值等方面的表征。所提出的应用方法实现了匀染，所有用无患子进行酶精练的样品的耐洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度评级均为4 - 5级。本研究还进行了统计分析并得出结论。
