Research & Development and Regulatory Affairs, Kneipp GmbH, Würzburg, Germany.
Callaghan Consulting International, Hamburg, Germany.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023 Oct;45(5):557-571. doi: 10.1111/ics.12879. Epub 2023 Jul 31.
Cleansing is an important human ritual practised for hygiene, well-being and relaxation over centuries. As part of body care it is often taken for granted, yet its relevance cannot be underestimated. Although cleansing the skin may seem trivial to some, it is accepted, that this fundamental function of skin cleansing products is highly complex, diverse and crucial for a variety of reasons in the personal, public, healthcare and dermatological settings. Employing a comprehensive and strategic approach in viewing cleansing and its rituals, supports innovation, understanding and development. Apart from being a fundamental function, as far as we know, there is no comprehensive presentation of skin cleansing with all its effects besides 'removing dirt'. To our knowledge, comprehensive analyses on the multi-dimensional facets of skin cleansing are either rare or not published. Against this background, we examine the importance of cleansing in terms of function, relevance and concepts. First, the key functions and efficacies of skin cleansing were investigated by literature research. Based on this survey, the functions were analysed, sorted and merged and a novel approach to skin cleansing 'dimensions' was developed. Herewith, we took into consideration the evolution of skin cleansing in terms of concept evolution, complexity and testing methods for cleansing products and their claims. Several multi-dimensional functions of skin cleansing were identified and then established into five skin cleansing dimensions, namely: hygienic and medical importance; socio-cultural and interpersonal relevance; mood, emotion and well-being; cosmetic and aesthetic function; corneobiological interactions. It became obvious, that these five dimensions with their corresponding 11 sub-dimensions, are influenced by each other throughout history by culture and society, technical progress, scientific knowledge and consumer trends. This article presents the enormous complexity of skin cleansing. Skin cleansing has evolved from basic care up to a highly complex and diverse cosmetic product category in terms of technology, efficacy and usage routine(s). In view of future challenges, such as the effects of climate and associated lifestyle changes, the development of skin cleansing will remain an exciting and important topic and thus will finally, again, further increase the complexity of skin cleansing itself.
清洁是人类几个世纪以来为了卫生、健康和放松而进行的重要仪式。作为身体护理的一部分,它通常被视为理所当然,但它的重要性不可低估。尽管有些人认为清洁皮肤微不足道,但人们普遍认为,皮肤清洁产品的这一基本功能非常复杂、多样化,并且由于个人、公众、医疗保健和皮肤病学等方面的各种原因,具有至关重要的作用。采用全面和战略性的方法来观察清洁及其仪式,可以支持创新、理解和发展。除了作为一项基本功能,据我们所知,除了“去除污垢”之外,没有全面展示皮肤清洁及其所有影响的内容。据我们所知,关于皮肤清洁的多维方面的综合分析要么很少,要么没有发表。在此背景下,我们从功能、相关性和概念的角度探讨清洁的重要性。首先,通过文献研究调查了皮肤清洁的关键功能和功效。基于这项调查,对功能进行了分析、分类和合并,并开发了一种新的皮肤清洁“维度”方法。在此过程中,我们考虑了皮肤清洁在概念演变、复杂性和清洁产品及其宣称的测试方法方面的演变。确定了皮肤清洁的几个多维功能,然后将其建立为五个皮肤清洁维度,即:卫生和医学重要性;社会文化和人际关系相关性;情绪、情感和幸福感;美容和美学功能;表皮生物学相互作用。显然,这些五个维度及其相应的 11 个子维度,在历史上受到文化和社会、技术进步、科学知识和消费者趋势的相互影响。本文展示了皮肤清洁的巨大复杂性。皮肤清洁从基本护理发展到技术、功效和使用常规高度复杂和多样化的化妆品类别。考虑到未来的挑战,如气候和相关生活方式变化的影响,皮肤清洁的发展将仍然是一个令人兴奋和重要的话题,因此最终将再次增加皮肤清洁本身的复杂性。