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L-4-噻唑基丙氨酸(Protinol™)对皮肤屏障强度和皮肤保护的影响。

Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinol™) on skin barrier strength and skin protection.

机构信息

Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023 Dec;45(6):725-738. doi: 10.1111/ics.12881. Epub 2023 Aug 17.

Abstract

OBJECTIVES

Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength.

METHODS

L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits.

RESULTS

In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp.

CONCLUSION

L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment.

摘要

目的

皮肤屏障特性对于维持表皮水分含量、抵御环境因素以及提供抵御病原体的第一道防线至关重要。在这项研究中,我们研究了非蛋白氨基酸 L-4-噻唑基丙氨酸(L4)作为皮肤保护和屏障强度的潜在有效成分。

方法

使用单层和 3D 皮肤等效物评估 L4 在伤口愈合、抗炎和抗氧化特性方面的作用。体外使用跨上皮电阻(TEER)值作为屏障强度和完整性的强指标。临床 L4 功效评估用于评估皮肤屏障完整性和舒缓功效。

结果

L4 的体外处理显示出在伤口闭合机制中的有益作用,并且我们证明 L4 具有抗氧化益处,可显着增加 HSP70 的产生并减少由 UV 暴露引起的活性氧的产生。L4 显著改善了屏障强度和完整性,这在临床上通过角质层中 12R-脂氧合酶酶活性的增加得到证实。此外,L4 的舒缓功效已在临床上得到证实,即在应用内臂上的烟碱酸甲酯后,发红减少,头皮上的红斑和皮肤脱皮明显减少。

结论

L4 通过增强皮肤屏障、加速皮肤修复过程以及通过抗炎作用舒缓皮肤和头皮,提供了多种皮肤益处。观察到的功效验证了 L4 作为一种理想的局部治疗用护肤成分。

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