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树胶作为一种有前景的生物成分,可用于稳定乳液,在化妆品领域具有应用潜力。

Gum as a Promising Bio-Ingredient to Stabilize Emulsions with Potentials in Cosmetics.

作者信息

Fanwa Michèle N, Malhiac Catherine, Hucher Nicolas, Cheumani Arnaud M Y, Ndikontar Maurice K, Grisel Michel

机构信息

Université Le Havre Normandie, Normandie Univ, URCOM UR 3221, F-76600 Le Havre, France.

Research Unit for Macromolecular Chemistry, Laboratory of Applied Inorganic Chemistry, Faculty of Science, University of Yaounde I, Yaounde P.O. Box 812, Cameroon.

出版信息

Polymers (Basel). 2023 Jun 26;15(13):2828. doi: 10.3390/polym15132828.

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is searching for efficient and sustainable substances capable of stabilizing emulsions or colloidal dispersions that are thermodynamically unstable because of their high surface energy. Therefore, surfactants are commonly used to stabilize the water/oil interface. However, the presence of a surfactant is not always sufficient to obtain stable emulsions on the one hand, and conventional surfactants are often subject to such controversies as their petroleum origin and environmental concerns on the other hand. As a consequence, among other challenges, it is obvious that research related to new-natural, biodegradable, biocompatible, available, competitive-surfactants are nowadays more intensive. This study aims to valorize a natural gum from () as a sustainable emulsifier and stabilizer for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, and to evaluate how the nature of the fatty phase could affect this potential. To this end, O/W emulsions were prepared at room temperature using three different oils varying in composition, using a rotor-stator mixer. Resulting mixtures were characterized using optical microscopy, laser granulometry, rheology, pH and stability monitoring over time. The results demonstrated good potential for the gum as an emulsifying agent. gum appears efficient even at very low concentrations (0.2% /) for the preparation and stabilization of the different O/W emulsions. The best results were observed for cocoglyceride oil due to its stronger effect of lowering interfacial tension (IFT) thus acting as a co-emulsifier. Therefore, overall results showed that gum is undoubtedly a highly promising new bio-sourced and environmentally friendly emulsifier/stabilizer for many applications including cosmetics.

摘要

化妆品行业正在寻找高效且可持续的物质,这些物质能够稳定乳液或胶体分散体,由于其高表面能,它们在热力学上是不稳定的。因此,表面活性剂通常用于稳定水/油界面。然而,一方面,表面活性剂的存在并不总是足以获得稳定的乳液,另一方面,传统表面活性剂常常因其石油来源和环境问题而备受争议。因此,在诸多挑战中,显然如今与新型天然、可生物降解、生物相容、可得且具有竞争力的表面活性剂相关的研究更加深入。本研究旨在将来自()的天然树胶作为水包油(O/W)乳液的可持续乳化剂和稳定剂加以利用,并评估脂肪相的性质如何影响这一潜力。为此,使用转子-定子混合器在室温下用三种成分不同的油制备了O/W乳液。使用光学显微镜、激光粒度分析、流变学、pH值和随时间的稳定性监测对所得混合物进行了表征。结果表明该树胶作为乳化剂具有良好的潜力。即使在非常低的浓度(0.2% /)下,该树胶对于制备和稳定不同的O/W乳液也显得很有效。由于椰油甘油酯油降低界面张力(IFT)的效果更强,从而起到了助乳化剂的作用,因此观察到其效果最佳。因此,总体结果表明,对于包括化妆品在内的许多应用而言,该树胶无疑是一种极具前景的新型生物源且环境友好的乳化剂/稳定剂。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/d3e5/10347043/7542b3c9f5bb/polymers-15-02828-g0A1.jpg

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