Aché Laboratórios Farmacêuticos, Guarulhos, Brazil.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Dec;22(12):3445-3458. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15852. Epub 2023 Jul 19.
Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.
The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.
We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.
The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.
The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.
皮肤衰老受多种生理过程调控，如氧化应激。天然产物一直被认为是抗氧化化合物的有前途的来源。因此，市场上基于天然产物的少数创新产品针对皮肤衰老的其他潜在机制。
本研究报告了一种从 V. 葡萄(Vitis vinifera)果皮中提取的新型提取物（编码为 ACH37 提取物）的非临床评估，旨在支持其作为临床试验中抗衰化妆品成分候选物的用途。
我们采用体外和体内酶学、表型和基因表达分析方法，研究了 ACH37 提取物在与皮肤衰老机制相关的不同生物学过程中的作用。
ACH37 提取物能够清除活性氧（DPPH、O ），预防炎症（LPS 和 UV 诱导的 COX-2、IL-1β 和 IL-8 表达），调节细胞外基质重塑（抑制弹性蛋白酶、MMP-1、MMP-3 和 MMP-12 以及相关表达），增加端粒长度、端粒酶活性，并逆转 UV 诱导的皮肤保护基因表达抑制。此外，ACH37 提取物能够渗透人体皮肤标本，并在体内显示出抗氧化功效。
结果表明，ACH37 提取物作用于与皮肤衰老相关的多个靶点，是一种有前途的抗衰活性成分候选物，值得进一步在临床试验中研究。
