Mansoor Kenza, Aburjai Talal, Al-Mamoori Farah, Schmidt Mathias
Department of Pharmaceutical Medicinal Chemistry and Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmacy and Medical Sciences, University of Petra, Amman, Jordan.
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Jordan, Amman, Jordan.
Phytother Res. 2023 Dec;37(12):5755-5768. doi: 10.1002/ptr.8019. Epub 2023 Sep 28.
The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.
在过去几年中，将植物用作化妆品活性成分来源的情况显著增加。与合成成分相比，草本化妆品具有安全性高、与各种肤质兼容、副作用少以及易于获取等优势。本综述旨在探讨化妆品中使用的最重要的植物。在几个电子数据库中进行了文献检索，检索词如下：护肤品与植物；化妆品与植物；天然与化妆品；天然与护肤品。此外，对阳性结果应用了更详细的筛选条件，如临床研究、荟萃分析和系统评价。本综述纳入了目前用于皮肤护理、疤痕修复、美白、抗衰以及防晒、痤疮、湿疹等方面的各种植物和植物提取物。这些植物的有效性主要基于临床前研究，临床研究的支撑作用较小。与其他植物提取物相比，一些植物提取物或油类，如洋葱、芦荟和茶树油，已经进行了更多的临床测试。尽管针对天然产品改善皮肤需求的研究众多，但合适的临床药妆试验比预期少得多。因此，需要更多的临床试验来评估其确切疗效。此外，新的配方技术可能会增强药妆功效，但仍需开展更多工作。
