Li Yufan, Han Jiejun, Gong Rongyue, Liu Yuankun, Zhou Yu, Gong Tiangui, Wang Bin, Zhang Laidi, Li Shuodan, Chen Jiayue
State Key Laboratory of Protein and Plant Gene Research, School of Advanced Agriculture Sciences and School of Life Sciences, Peking University, Beijing, China.
Hangzhou Shiguang Xinya Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Hangzhou, China.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Aug;47(4):652-664. doi: 10.1111/ics.13055. Epub 2025 Mar 13.
The study investigated effects of peony callus extracts (PCE) on the protective efficacy against Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoageing, using in vitro and in vivo studies. The research focused on PCE's ability to protect against inflammatory factors, DNA damage and accumulation of senescent cells, along with the evaluation of the extract's potential anti-photoageing benefits to skin.
Human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells), mast cells and fibroblasts were used to evaluate the role of PCE in anti-photoageing. The expression of genes of interleukin-1α (IL-1α), IL-6 and transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) were tested in HaCaT cells. The histamine contents in mast cells were tested to evaluate the effect of PCE on soothing skin. Additionally, the repairment of PCE on DNA damage stimulated by UVB using comet assay was evaluated. In fibroblasts, the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and the activity of β-galactosidase were tested. In vivo test, 13 healthy volunteers were enrolled to apply a formula with 1% PCE to assess the variation in inner skin collagen contents.
The callus from an ancient and rare variety of tree peony (Paeoniaceae family) was successfully induced, and its ingredients were extracted. The PCE could significantly downregulate inflammation factors such as IL-1α, IL-6 and TRPV1 in HaCaT cells, and MMPs in fibroblasts which could cause the collagen degradation induced by UVB. Meanwhile, UVB-induced DNA damage was alleviated by PCE. The analysis of histamine content in mast cells revealed that PCE effectively alleviated skin sensitivity. Furthermore, the clinical trials validated a significant increase in total collagen content in vivo, following 28 days of continuous application of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% PCE measured by Raman confocal spectroscopy technology.
The PCE could downregulate the gene expression of inflammatory factors, indicating the ability of DNA repair. The number of senescent cells was also decreased after UVB stimulation. Furthermore, the results of in vivo study showed that PCE was an ideal cosmetic ingredient for promoting collagen levels.
本研究通过体外和体内实验，探究牡丹愈伤组织提取物（PCE）对紫外线B（UVB）诱导的光老化的防护效果。该研究聚焦于PCE抵御炎症因子、DNA损伤和衰老细胞积累的能力，同时评估该提取物对皮肤潜在的抗光老化益处。
使用人角质形成细胞系（HaCaT细胞）、肥大细胞和成纤维细胞来评估PCE在抗光老化中的作用。检测HaCaT细胞中白细胞介素-1α（IL-1α）、IL-6和瞬时受体电位香草酸亚型1（TRPV1）基因的表达。检测肥大细胞中的组胺含量，以评估PCE对舒缓皮肤的效果。此外，使用彗星试验评估PCE对UVB刺激引起的DNA损伤的修复作用。在成纤维细胞中，检测基质金属蛋白酶（MMPs）的基因表达和β-半乳糖苷酶的活性。在体内试验中，招募13名健康志愿者，涂抹含1%PCE的配方产品，以评估皮肤内部胶原蛋白含量的变化。
成功诱导出一种古老珍稀牡丹品种（芍药科）的愈伤组织，并提取了其成分。PCE可显著下调HaCaT细胞中的IL-1α、IL-6和TRPV1等炎症因子，以及成纤维细胞中可导致UVB诱导胶原蛋白降解的MMPs。同时，PCE减轻了UVB诱导的DNA损伤。肥大细胞中组胺含量分析表明，PCE有效减轻了皮肤敏感性。此外，临床试验证实，连续28天涂抹含1%PCE的化妆品配方后，通过拉曼共聚焦光谱技术测量，体内总胶原蛋白含量显著增加。
PCE可下调炎症因子的基因表达，表明其具有DNA修复能力。UVB刺激后衰老细胞数量也减少。此外，体内研究结果表明，PCE是促进胶原蛋白水平的理想化妆品成分。
