CBQF-Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina-Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal.
Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Unipessoal Lda., Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal.
Int J Mol Sci. 2023 Dec 19;25(1):21. doi: 10.3390/ijms25010021.
Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.
天然且可持续的抗衰老成分引起了化妆品行业的关注。本研究评估了一种基于甘蔗秸秆提取物（SSE）的化妆品成分的抗衰老潜力。首先，在角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞系中进行细胞毒性测试，并通过直接肽反应性测定进行致敏性测试。随后，研究了各种抗衰老特性，包括抑制皮肤衰老相关酶、促进弹性蛋白和透明质酸合成以及抗污染活性。最后，通过使用类似于皮肤的合成膜进行了渗透性测定。结果表明，SSE 成分在非细胞毒性和低敏化剂浓度下有效抑制弹性蛋白酶（55%）、胶原酶（25%）和酪氨酸酶（47%），同时促进透明质酸的产生。此外，它还减轻了城市污染引起的炎症反应，表现为白细胞介素 1-α和白细胞介素-6 水平降低。然而，观察到酚类化合物主要到达皮肤表面，表明其穿透皮肤深层的能力有限。因此，可以得出结论，SSE 成分具有抗衰老特性，但穿透皮肤深层的能力有限。需要进一步的研究和配方改进，以优化该成分穿透并在皮肤深层发挥作用的能力。
