Facchin Manuela, Gatto Vanessa, Samiolo Riccardo, Conca Silvia, Santandrea Domenico, Beghetto Valentina
Department of Molecular Sciences and Nanosystems, University Ca' Foscari of Venice, Via Torino 155, 30172, Mestre, Italy.
Crossing S.r.l., Viale della Repubblica 193/b, 31100, Treviso, Italy.
Environ Pollut. 2024 Mar 15;345:123472. doi: 10.1016/j.envpol.2024.123472. Epub 2024 Feb 4.
Leather is produced by a multi-step process among which the tanning phase is the most relevant, transforming animal skin collagen into a stable, non-putrescible material used to produce a variety of different goods, for the footwear, automotive, garments, and sports industry. Most of the leather produced today is tanned with chromium (III) salts or alternatively with aldehydes or synthetic tannins, generating high environmental concern. Over the years, high exhaustion tanning systems have been developed to reduce the environmental impact of chromium salts, which nevertheless do not avoid the use of metals. Chrome-free alternatives such as aldehydes and phenol based synthetic tannins, are suffering from Reach restrictions due to their toxicity. Thus, the need for environmentally benign and economically sustainable tanning agents is increasingly urgent. In this review, the synthesis, use and tanning mechanism of a new class of tanning agents, 1,3,5-triazines derivatives, have been reported together with organoleptic, physical mechanical characteristics of tanned leather produced. Additionally environmental performance and economic data available for 1,3,5-triazines have been compared with those of a standard basic chromium sulphate tanning process, evidencing the high potentiality for sustainable, metal, aldehyde, and phenol free leather manufacturing.
皮革是通过多步骤工艺生产的，其中鞣制阶段最为关键，它能将动物皮胶原蛋白转化为一种稳定、不易腐烂的材料，用于生产各种不同的产品，如制鞋、汽车、服装和体育用品行业。如今生产的大部分皮革是用铬（III）盐鞣制的，或者用醛类或合成鞣剂鞣制，这引发了高度的环境问题。多年来，人们开发了高吸收率鞣制系统以减少铬盐对环境的影响，但这并不能避免金属的使用。无铬替代品，如醛类和酚基合成鞣剂，由于其毒性而受到《化学品注册、评估、授权和限制法规》（REACH）的限制。因此，对环境友好且经济可持续的鞣剂的需求日益迫切。在这篇综述中，一类新型鞣剂1,3,5 - 三嗪衍生物的合成、用途和鞣制机理，以及所生产鞣制皮革的感官、物理机械特性都已被报道。此外，还将1,3,5 - 三嗪的环境性能和经济数据与标准碱性硫酸铬鞣制工艺的数据进行了比较，证明了其在可持续、无金属、无醛和无酚皮革制造方面的巨大潜力。
