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风暴与潮汐相互作用控制着混合能量海岸系统中的沉积物交换。

Storm and tidal interactions control sediment exchange in mixed-energy coastal systems.

作者信息

Georgiou Ioannis Y, FitzGerald Duncan M, Hanegan Kevin C

机构信息

The Water Institute, New Orleans, LA 70122, USA.

Department of Earth and Environment, Boston University, Boston, MA 02215, USA.

出版信息

PNAS Nexus. 2024 Feb 3;3(2):pgae042. doi: 10.1093/pnasnexus/pgae042. eCollection 2024 Feb.

Abstract

Storms can have devasting effects on shorelines, causing flooding and the destruction of property and infrastructure. As global warming and the frequency and magnitude of tropical storms increase, barrier islands comprising 10% of the world's coast may undergo significant change caused by beach erosion, loss of dunes, and formation of washovers and tidal inlets. Understanding how storms affect sediment transport at tidal inlets is an understudied subject that directly influences barrier island erosional-depositional processes and long-term sediment budgets. This study models hydrodynamics and sediment transport at a conceptualized mixed-energy, mesotidal inlet system using 10 synthetic storm tracks. We investigate the provenance and the role of various storm characteristics and timing between the peak storm surge and high tide on sediment fluxes for different grain sizes. We find that most storms (38 of 40) cause a net import of sediment into the basin that is sourced primarily from the updrift and downdrift nearshore and secondly from the ebb-delta. Very little sediment comes from inlet channel scour. Cumulative (net) transport correlates well with peak significant wave height because wave height influences bottom shear stresses and sediment suspension on the ebb-tidal delta and in the nearshore. The duration of the storm surge also correlates with net transport because it controls the period of flood-directed currents. Our findings help explain the formation of flood deltas inside tidal inlets and the formation of sand shoals in backbarrier regions. Storm-induced enlargement of these deposits represents a permanent long-term loss of sand from barrier islands that will lead to erosion.

摘要

风暴会对海岸线造成毁灭性影响,引发洪水以及财产和基础设施的损毁。随着全球变暖以及热带风暴的频率和强度增加,占全球海岸线10%的障壁岛可能会因海滩侵蚀、沙丘流失、越滩冲刷和潮汐通道的形成而发生显著变化。了解风暴如何影响潮汐通道处的泥沙输运是一个研究较少的课题,它直接影响障壁岛的侵蚀-沉积过程和长期泥沙收支。本研究使用10条合成风暴路径对一个概念化的混合能量、中潮潮汐通道系统的水动力和泥沙输运进行了建模。我们研究了不同粒径泥沙通量的各种风暴特征的来源及其作用,以及风暴潮峰值与高潮之间的时间关系。我们发现,大多数风暴(40次中有38次)导致泥沙净输入到盆地,这些泥沙主要来自上游和下游近岸,其次是落潮三角洲。很少有泥沙来自潮汐通道冲刷。累积(净)输运与显著波高峰值密切相关,因为波高会影响落潮三角洲和近岸的底部剪应力及泥沙悬浮。风暴潮持续时间也与净输运相关,因为它控制着向陆水流的持续时间。我们的研究结果有助于解释潮汐通道内洪水三角洲的形成以及障壁岛后区域沙洲的形成。风暴引发的这些沉积物的扩大代表着障壁岛沙子的永久性长期流失,这将导致侵蚀。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/66c3/10898511/4faddca3577a/pgae042f1.jpg

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