L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay, France.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China.
Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2024 Jul;37(4):462-479. doi: 10.1111/pcmr.13168. Epub 2024 Apr 1.
Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2-MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.
研究既能考虑功效、安全性,又能兼顾环境影响的预防皮肤中黑色素过度生成的新成分,对于显著改善现有活性成分的特性和避免不良副作用至关重要。本文描述了一种用于治疗色素沉着过度的创新技术的发现。对广泛的分子化学多样性进行高通量筛选测试和基于计算机的预测方法对于设计原始的噻吩并吡啶骨架和选择 2-巯基烟酰甘氨酸(2-MNG)至关重要,2-MNG 表现出在水足迹、皮肤渗透潜力和性能方面的最佳平衡。2-MNG 的有效性通过在色素沉着重建表皮和人体皮肤外植体上的局部应用得到了证实。此外,实验表明,与市场上大多数黑色素生成抑制剂不同,这种分子不是酪氨酸酶抑制剂。2-MNG 与某些黑色素前体结合,阻止它们整合到正在生长的黑色素中,从而抑制真黑色素和棕黑色素的合成,而不会损害黑素细胞的完整性。