Liang Yan, Wang Ni, Li Qing, Jiang Huiyu
Hubei Key Laboratory of Biomass Fibers and Eco-Dyeing & Finishing, School of Textile Science and Engineering, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430200, China.
School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430200, China.
Materials (Basel). 2024 Jul 22;17(14):3611. doi: 10.3390/ma17143611.
Ink-jet-printed silk, a premium textile material, was achieved by utilizing a bio-based gardenia blue dye. However, the sharpness of the printing pattern is difficult to control due to the limited water-retention capacity of silk. To address this issue, three polysaccharide derivatives, namely, sodium alginate (SA), low-viscosity hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC-I), and high-viscosity hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC-II), were employed as thickeners to modify the silk by the dipping-padding method. Firstly, the preparation of the gardenia blue ink and the rheology assessment of the thickener solution were conducted. Furthermore, the impacts of different thickeners on the micro-morphology, element composition, and hydrophilicity of the silk, along with the wetting behavior of the ink on the silk, were analyzed comparatively in order to identify an appropriate thickener for preserving pattern outlines. Lastly, the color features, color fastness, and wearing characteristics of the printed silk were discussed to evaluate the overall printing quality. Research results showed that the optimized ink formulation, comprising 12% gardenia blue, 21% alcohols, and 5.5% surfactant, met the requirements for ink-jet printing (with a viscosity of 4.48 mPa·s, a surface tension of 34.12 mN/m, and a particle size of 153 nm). The HPMC-II solution exhibited prominent shear-thinning behavior, high elasticity, and thixotropy, facilitating the achievement of an even modification effect. The treatment of the silk with HPMC-II resulted in the most notable decrease in hydrophilicity. This can be attributed to the presence of filled gaps and a dense film on the fibers' surface after the HPMC-II treatment, as observed by scanning electron microscopy. Additionally, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis confirmed that the HPMC-II treatment introduced the highest content of hydrophobic groups on the fiber surface. The reduced hydrophilicity inhibited the excessive diffusion and penetration of gardenia blue ink, contributing to a distinct printing image and enhanced apparent color depth. Moreover, the printed silk demonstrated qualified color fastness to rubbing and soaping (exceeding grade four), a soft handle feeling, an ignorable strength loss (below 5%), and a favorable air/moisture penetrability. In general, the surface modification with the HPMC-II treatment has been proven as an effective strategy for upgrading the image quality of bio-based dye-printed silk.
通过使用生物基栀子蓝染料实现了喷墨印花丝绸,这是一种优质纺织材料。然而,由于丝绸的保水能力有限,印花图案的清晰度难以控制。为了解决这个问题,采用了三种多糖衍生物,即海藻酸钠(SA)、低粘度羟丙基甲基纤维素(HPMC-I)和高粘度羟丙基甲基纤维素(HPMC-II)作为增稠剂,通过浸轧法对丝绸进行改性。首先,制备了栀子蓝墨水并对增稠剂溶液进行了流变学评估。此外,比较分析了不同增稠剂对丝绸微观形态、元素组成和亲水性的影响,以及墨水在丝绸上的润湿行为,以确定一种合适的增稠剂来保留图案轮廓。最后,讨论了印花丝绸的颜色特征、色牢度和穿着特性,以评估整体印花质量。研究结果表明,优化后的墨水配方,包括12%的栀子蓝、21%的醇类和5.5%的表面活性剂,满足喷墨印花要求(粘度为4.48 mPa·s,表面张力为34.12 mN/m,粒径为153 nm)。HPMC-II溶液表现出显著的剪切变稀行为、高弹性和触变性,有助于实现均匀的改性效果。用HPMC-II处理丝绸导致亲水性最显著降低。这可归因于HPMC-II处理后纤维表面存在填充间隙和致密薄膜,扫描电子显微镜观察到了这一点。此外,X射线光电子能谱分析证实,HPMC-II处理在纤维表面引入了最高含量的疏水基团。亲水性降低抑制了栀子蓝墨水的过度扩散和渗透,有助于形成清晰的印花图像并提高表观色深。此外,印花丝绸表现出合格的耐摩擦和耐皂洗色牢度(超过四级)、柔软的手感、可忽略不计的强度损失(低于5%)以及良好的透气/透湿性。总体而言,HPMC-II处理的表面改性已被证明是提升生物基染料印花丝绸图像质量的有效策略。