Poleykett Branwyn
Department of Anthropology, Faculty of Social and Behavioural Sciences, University of Amsterdam, Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Food Cult Soc. 2023 Dec 12;27(4):1171-1186. doi: 10.1080/15528014.2023.2268362. eCollection 2024.
Over the past decade home cooking in the Senegalese city of Dakar has come to be dominated by culinary practices of : the incorporation of new commodities and flavor enhancers and the invention of new cooking techniques that intensify the taste of everyday dishes. Producing a well flavored meal is a crucial part of women's domestic work, but cooks are increasingly critiqued in Dakar, accused of traducing culinary heritage, challenging the authority of elders, and spreading metabolic disease. Drawing on ethnographic research in Senegalese households and qualitative interviews and focus groups with women who prepare food, I introduce the analytical category of "flavor work" to show how the everyday making of taste in a West African city is embedded in historical and contemporary forms of household social reproduction. Controversy over the taste of home cooking reveals how women's flavor work serves a double reproductive purpose. Flavor work creates culturally coherent and intelligible meals, but it also forms part of broader subsistence strategies: techniques for navigating scarcity and rupture.
在过去十年里，塞内加尔城市达喀尔的家庭烹饪逐渐被以下烹饪方式主导：引入新食材和调味剂，以及发明新烹饪技巧以强化日常菜肴的味道。做出美味的饭菜是女性家务劳动的关键部分，但在达喀尔，厨师们越来越受到批评，被指责背叛烹饪传统、挑战长辈权威以及传播代谢性疾病。通过对塞内加尔家庭的人种志研究以及与做饭女性进行的定性访谈和焦点小组讨论，我引入了“风味劳作”这一分析范畴，以展示在一个西非城市中，日常的口味制作是如何嵌入家庭社会再生产的历史和当代形式之中的。关于家庭烹饪口味的争议揭示了女性的风味劳作如何服务于双重再生产目的。风味劳作创造出文化上连贯且易懂的饭菜，但它也是更广泛的生存策略的一部分：应对匮乏和中断的技巧。
