Tham Huijun Phoebe, Yip Kah Yuen, Aitipamula Srinivasulu, Mothe Srinivasa Reddy, Zhao Wenguang, Choong Ping Sen, Benetti Ayca Altay, Gan Wanjuan Evonne, Leong Fong Yew, Thoniyot Praveen, Dawson Thomas L
A*STAR Skin Research Labs (A*SRL), Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR), Singapore, Singapore.
Institute of Sustainability for Chemicals, Energy and Environment (ISCE2), Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR), Singapore, Singapore.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Feb;47(1):58-72. doi: 10.1111/ics.12994. Epub 2024 Aug 12.
This research investigates how particle parameters, such as zeta potential, size, functional group, material composition, and hydrophobicity affect their affinity and deposition of particles onto hair.
Streaming potential was used as the technique for analysis. The streaming potential data obtained was then converted to surface coverage data. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was also done to visualize particle localization on the hair surface.
This study found stronger particle affinity on healthy than on damaged (oxidatively bleached) hair, due to diminished interaction sites from the removal of the hair shaft's external lipid layer. SEM imaging supported these findings and offered insights into particle localization. Hydrophilic silica particles accumulated along the exposed hydrophilic cuticle edges of healthy hair, due to hydrogen bonding with the exposed endocuticle. This localization is hypothesized to be due to the limited hydrophilic binding sites on the hydrophobic healthy hair cuticle surface. In damaged hair, an abundance of hydrophilic sites across the cuticle surface results in more dispersed binding. Hydrogen bonding and electrostatic attraction were shown to be the predominant forces influencing deposition, with hydrophobic interactions playing a less influential role. The affinity studies also proved that electrostatic attractions work over a longer range and are more effective at lower particle conditions compared with hydrogen bonding which only start to play a bigger role at higher particle concentrations. Steric hindrance of bulky side groups acted as a significant repulsive force. Results also revealed that larger particles deposit poorly on both healthy and damaged hair compared with smaller ones. Compared with neutrally charged silica nanoparticles (SN-2), positively charged PMMA particles (PN+16) have a stronger affinity to healthy hair, with highly charged particles (PN+49) depositing most rapidly.
This study provides a fundamental understanding of how particle-surface parameters influence their affinity to hair and how damaging hair affects deposition.
本研究调查颗粒参数,如zeta电位、尺寸、官能团、材料组成和疏水性,如何影响颗粒与头发的亲和力及其在头发上的沉积。
采用流动电位作为分析技术。然后将获得的流动电位数据转换为表面覆盖率数据。还进行了扫描电子显微镜(SEM)观察,以可视化颗粒在头发表面的定位。
本研究发现,由于去除毛干外部脂质层导致相互作用位点减少,颗粒对健康头发的亲和力比对受损(氧化漂白)头发的更强。SEM成像支持了这些发现,并提供了颗粒定位的见解。亲水性二氧化硅颗粒沿着健康头发暴露的亲水性角质层边缘聚集,这是由于与暴露的内角质层形成氢键。据推测,这种定位是由于疏水性健康头发角质层表面上亲水性结合位点有限。在受损头发中,角质层表面大量的亲水性位点导致结合更加分散。氢键和静电吸引被证明是影响沉积的主要力量,疏水相互作用的影响较小。亲和力研究还证明,与仅在较高颗粒浓度下才开始发挥更大作用的氢键相比,静电吸引作用范围更长,在较低颗粒条件下更有效。庞大侧基的空间位阻起到了显著的排斥力作用。结果还表明,与较小颗粒相比,较大颗粒在健康头发和受损头发上的沉积都很差。与中性电荷的二氧化硅纳米颗粒(SN-2)相比,带正电荷的聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯颗粒(PN+16)对健康头发的亲和力更强,带高电荷的颗粒(PN+49)沉积最快。
本研究提供了对颗粒表面参数如何影响其与头发的亲和力以及头发损伤如何影响沉积的基本理解。