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头发护理与治疗中的纳米材料。

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment.

作者信息

Pereira-Silva Miguel, Martins Ana Margarida, Sousa-Oliveira Inês, Ribeiro Helena Margarida, Veiga Francisco, Marto Joana, Paiva-Santos Ana Cláudia

机构信息

Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, Polo das Ciências da Saúde, Azinhaga de Santa Comba, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal; REQUIMTE/LAQV, Group of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal.

Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003 Lisbon, Portugal.

出版信息

Acta Biomater. 2022 Apr 1;142:14-35. doi: 10.1016/j.actbio.2022.02.025. Epub 2022 Feb 21.

DOI:10.1016/j.actbio.2022.02.025
PMID:35202853
Abstract

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

摘要

多年来,随着人们不断探索新的配方以满足美容和医学领域的需求,头发护理和治疗方法有了显著发展。标准的头发护理程序包括旨在清洁和保养头发的洗发,以及用于头发装饰的染发和漂白配方,而现代头发治疗主要集中在解决脱发问题、增强毛囊特性和治疗头发感染。在这方面,头发化妆品配方中包含的活性化合物(ACs)包括大量的头发清洁和染发分子,典型的头发治疗包括抗脱发ACs(如米诺地尔和非那雄胺)和抗虱子ACs(如氯菊酯)。然而,一些挑战仍然存在,因为传统的AC配方表现出次优性能,有些可能存在毒性问题,这就需要在功效和安全性方面改进配方设计。最近,包含纳米材料的基于纳米的策略已成为有前景的定制方法,以提高纳入头发化妆品和治疗配方中的ACs的性能。对使用这些纳米材料的兴趣基于它们能够:(1)提高ACs的稳定性、安全性和生物相容性;(2)最大化头发亲和力、接触和保留,作为通用的生物界面;(3)在头发和头皮中实现ACs的控释,作为延长的AC储存库;此外还提供(4)考虑到表面可调节性的毛囊靶向特性。本综述涵盖了用于头发化妆品和头发治疗的纳米材料的突破,重点关注有机纳米材料(基于聚合物和基于脂质的纳米颗粒)和无机纳米材料(纳米片、纳米管和无机纳米颗粒),以及它们的应用,突出它们作为创新的多功能纳米材料在最大化头发护理和治疗方面的潜力。重要性声明:本手稿专注于综述迄今为止研究的用于头发护理和治疗的纳米技术策略。虽然传统配方表现出次优性能,有些可能存在毒性问题,但选择改进和合适的纳米递送系统对于确保活性成分在头发和头皮中适当释放、最大化头发亲和力、接触和保留以及提供毛囊靶向特性至关重要,从而保证稳定性、功效和安全性。这份创新的手稿突出了基于纳米技术方法的优势,特别是作为可调节和通用的生物界面,以及它们作为创新的多功能纳米材料在最大化头发护理和治疗方面的应用。

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