da Silva Tássyo Leandro, Pinheiro Jonas Gabriel de Oliveira, de Moura Arthur Thomaz Coutinho, Maia Neto Christovam Gondim, Correia Francisco Lucas Pereira, Comin Marcielle Sayuri Kubo, da Silva Rafaela Costa Ferreira, de Araújo Samara Vitória Ferreira, Barreto Stella Maria Andrade Gomes, Oliveira Artur de Santana, Damasceno Gabriel Azevedo de Brito, Ferrari Márcio
Departament of Pharmacy, Federal University of Rio Grande Do Norte - UFRN, Rua Gustavo Cordeiro de Farias, Natal, RN, Brazil.
Multidisciplinary Health Institute, Anísio Teixeira Campus, Federal University of Bahia - UFBA, Rua Hormindo Barros, Vitória da Conquista, BA, Brazil.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Feb;47(1):101-112. doi: 10.1111/ics.13018. Epub 2024 Aug 13.
Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties.
The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests.
The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 μg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period.
This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities.
牧豆树(Prosopis juliflora),俗称角豆树或牧豆树属豆科植物,已被引入并自此在卡廷加生物群落的半干旱地区扩散开来。各种研究记录了其特性,包括抗菌、抗氧化和抗肿瘤活性,这些活性归因于生物碱、萜类化合物、单宁和黄酮类等多种次生代谢产物的存在。本研究的目的是评估牧豆树果实提取物作为多功能活性成分的抗氧化和抗酪氨酸酶活性,并开发含有这种植物提取物的化妆品配方,用于具有抗老化和肤色均匀特性的护肤品潜在应用。
提取过程遵循既定方案。提取物的化学表征包括总黄酮和酚类化合物的定量,以及液相色谱 - 质谱(LC - MS)分析。使用不同方法评估体外抗氧化活性。通过酶促测定法测定抗酪氨酸酶活性。含有乙二胺四乙酸二钠、苯氧乙醇(和)乙基己基甘油、蒸馏水、丙烯酸钠共聚物卵磷脂、聚丙烯酰胺(和)C13 - 14异链烷烃(和)月桂醇聚醚 - 7以及3.0%所研究植物提取物的化妆品配方进行了初步和加速稳定性测试。
提取物显示总黄酮浓度为(1.71±0.26μg EQ/mg),酚类化合物浓度为0.21±0.01mg EAG/g。注释了黄酮类和皂苷类等代谢产物及其一些各自的糖苷衍生物。提取物显示出抗氧化潜力以及在引发和传播阶段抑制氧化级联反应的能力。此外,提取物对抗酪氨酸酶活性表现出显著抑制,在浓度为30.00mg/mL时呈现62.48±2.09。配方在60天的加速稳定性测试中保持稳定。
本研究不仅通过证明卡廷加生物群落中的一种具有抗氧化和抗酪氨酸酶特性的植物在开发具有抗老化效果和肤色协调的化妆品方面的潜力进行了科学论证,还为牧豆树生产链增加了价值。这种增值涵盖环境、社会和生物多样性责任等各个方面。