Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development, School of Light Industry Science and Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China.
State Key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering, College of Chemistry, Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing 100029, China.
Int J Biol Macromol. 2024 Nov;279(Pt 2):135259. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.135259. Epub 2024 Sep 2.
Consumer perception and market demand have driven the replacement of synthetic colorants with naturally derived alternatives in the cosmetic industry. This study describes a facile way to prepare durable inorganic-organic hybrid pigment with advanced biocompatibility, antibacterial and hydrophobic properties tailored for color cosmetics by initial modification of palygorskite with chitosan to anchor sappanwood dye extract and subsequently coating with amino-modified silicone oil (ASO). The hybrid pigments were characterized by transmittance electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller method. The results indicated that the sappanwood dye was loaded on chitosan-modified palygorskite via hydrogen bonding and electrostatic interaction. Furthermore, the chitosan-palygorskite/sappanwood hybrid pigment exhibited enhanced biocompatibility and color stability on exposure to different heating temperatures and UVA radiation after subsequent hydrophobic modification with amino-modified silicone oil. Moreover, facial foundation cosmetics based on the chitosan-palygorskite/sappanwood@ASO composites exhibited excellent brightening and skin color corrective effect on human volunteers without any adverse response. And no significant difference was observed in 12 out of 14 sensory evaluation indexes in the comparison of this hybrid pigment-based makeup with two commercially available products. This study provides a new route to stabilize natural botanical colorant for cosmetic use by chitosan-modified clay minerals.
消费者的认知和市场需求推动了化妆品行业用天然衍生替代品替代合成着色剂。本研究描述了一种简便的方法，通过用壳聚糖对坡缕石进行初始修饰，将具有先进生物相容性、抗菌和疏水性的耐用无机-有机杂化颜料锚定在苏木染料提取物上，然后用氨基改性硅油 (ASO) 进行涂层，从而制备出适合彩妆的颜料。通过透射电子显微镜、X 射线衍射、傅里叶变换红外光谱、X 射线光电子能谱和 Brunauer-Emmett-Teller 方法对杂化颜料进行了表征。结果表明，苏木染料通过氢键和静电相互作用负载在壳聚糖改性坡缕石上。此外，经过氨基改性硅油的疏水性改性后，壳聚糖-坡缕石/苏木杂化颜料在暴露于不同加热温度和 UVA 辐射后，表现出增强的生物相容性和颜色稳定性。此外，基于壳聚糖-坡缕石/苏木@ASO 复合材料的面部粉底化妆品在人体志愿者中表现出出色的提亮和肤色矫正效果，没有任何不良反应。并且，与两种市售产品相比，这种混合颜料制成的化妆品在 14 项感官评估指标中有 12 项没有显著差异。本研究为通过壳聚糖改性粘土矿物为化妆品稳定天然植物着色剂提供了一条新途径。
