Schoenfelder Hans, Wiedemann Yvonne, Lunter Dominique Jasmin
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Science, Eberhard Karls Universität Tübingen, Tuebingen, Germany.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Apr;47(2):223-233. doi: 10.1111/ics.13023. Epub 2024 Sep 16.
Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.
The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.
The rheological characterization showed a gel-like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.
In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well-chosen ingredients.
基础治疗是慢性皮肤病治疗的一个组成部分。然而，在将皮肤产品应用于患病皮肤之前，应分析其配方在物理稳定性和患者耐受性方面的情况。尤其应考虑配方在受损皮肤上使用的适用性，以免导致病情加重。
以下方法研究了两种含乳化剂单硬脂酸山梨坦的配方以及一种添加了聚乙二醇100硬脂基醚的配方。与市售基础治疗产品相比，表征包括流变学、乳膏的宏观和微观分析。使用离体猪角质层进行角质层（SC）的吡喃荧光素染色和经表皮水分流失（TEWL）测量，以评估皮肤屏障功能。
流变学表征显示配方具有凝胶状、粘弹性行为，且粘度与市售产品处于同一数量级。吡喃荧光素染色显示，用所开发的配方处理可补偿由十二烷基硫酸钠引起的皮肤损伤。遵循相同趋势，TEWL结果清楚地显示数值下降，这证明皮肤屏障功能得到改善。
总之，所开发的单硬脂酸山梨坦配方作为皮肤病基础治疗的一部分，有可能改善皮肤屏障功能缺陷，并且作为包含最少精心挑选成分的市售产品的优质替代品。
