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对橄榄油工业副产品提取物在局部用制剂中潜在皮肤益处的研究。

Investigations of Olive Oil Industry By-Products Extracts with Potential Skin Benefits in Topical Formulations.

作者信息

Nunes Andreia, Gonçalves Lídia, Marto Joana, Martins Ana Margarida, Silva Alexandra N, Pinto Pedro, Martins Marta, Fraga Carmo, Ribeiro Helena Margarida

机构信息

Research Institute for Medicine (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003 Lisbon, Portugal.

ADEIM, Laboratório de Controlo Microbiológico, 1649-003 Lisbon, Portugal.

出版信息

Pharmaceutics. 2021 Mar 30;13(4):465. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics13040465.

Abstract

The by-products of olive oil industry are a major ecological issue due to their phenolic content, highly toxic organic load, and low pH. However, they can be recovered and reused, since their components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotector properties. In this work, oil-in-water creams containing three different olive oil industry by-products extracts were produced without the use of organic solvents. First, the extracts were thoroughly characterized in vitro for cytotoxicity, inhibition of skin enzymes, and antioxidant and photoprotection capacities. Safety studies were then performed, including ocular and skin irritation tests, ecotoxicity evaluation, and in vivo Human Repeat Insult Patch Test. The results obtained in this initial characterization supported the incorporation of the extracts in the cream formulations. After preparation, the creams were characterized for their organoleptic, physicochemical, droplet size and rheological properties, and microbial contamination. The results showed that all formulations were semi-solid creams, with stable pH, compatible with the skin, without microbial contamination, and with the expected droplet size range. The rheological analysis showed shear-thinning behavior with yield stress, with the viscosity decreasing with increasing shear rate. The oscillatory results suggest that the creams have a strong network structure, being easily rubbed into the skin. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. No adverse reactions were observed after application of the formulations on skin and the cream with the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds showed the highest antioxidant efficiency. In conclusion, the results suggest that olive oil industry by-products extracts have valuable properties that favor their re-use in the cosmetic industry. The example presented here showed their successful incorporation into creams and their impact in these formulations' appearance, pH, and rheological performance, as well as their in vivo compatibility with skin and antioxidant efficiency.

摘要

橄榄油产业的副产品因其酚类成分、高毒性有机负荷和低pH值而成为一个重大的生态问题。然而,它们可以被回收再利用,因为其成分具有抗氧化、抗炎和光保护特性。在这项工作中,制备了含有三种不同橄榄油产业副产品提取物的水包油乳膏,且未使用有机溶剂。首先,对提取物进行了全面的体外细胞毒性、皮肤酶抑制以及抗氧化和光保护能力的表征。随后进行了安全性研究,包括眼刺激和皮肤刺激试验、生态毒性评估以及体内人体重复刺激斑贴试验。在这一初步表征中获得的结果支持将提取物纳入乳膏配方。制备后,对乳膏的感官、物理化学、液滴大小和流变学特性以及微生物污染进行了表征。结果表明,所有配方均为半固体乳膏,pH稳定,与皮肤相容,无微生物污染,且液滴大小在预期范围内。流变学分析表明具有屈服应力的剪切变稀行为,粘度随剪切速率增加而降低。振荡结果表明乳膏具有强大的网络结构,易于涂抹于皮肤。最后,在人体志愿者中进行了体内相容性、可接受性和抗氧化功效评估。在皮肤上涂抹配方后未观察到不良反应,酚类化合物浓度最高的乳膏显示出最高的抗氧化效率。总之,结果表明橄榄油产业副产品提取物具有宝贵的特性,有利于其在化妆品行业中的再利用。此处给出的例子表明它们成功地融入了乳膏中,以及它们对这些配方的外观、pH值和流变学性能的影响,以及它们在体内与皮肤的相容性和抗氧化效率。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/9c61/8065837/9e19df55bd1e/pharmaceutics-13-00465-g001.jpg

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