Goik Urszula
Katedra Inżynierii i Aparatury Przemysłu Spożywczego, Wydział Technologii Żywności, Uniwersytet Rolniczy im. Hugona Kołłątaja w Krakowie.
Postepy Biochem. 2024 Sep 17;70(3):307-314. doi: 10.18388/pb.2021_554. Print 2024 Sep 30.
Vitamin C is one of the most important and necessary nutrient for human health, which has great potential as cosmeceutic, which protects health and the skin good condition. Thru the collagen biosynthesis stimulation it affects to the physiology of human skin, participating in the hydroxylation process of proline and lysine, and participates in tissue reconstruction while wound healing. Deficiency of vitamin C causes irregularities in the blood vessels functioning, epidermis and dermis. Is an effective antioxidant neutralizing free radicals, prevents inflammatory and carcinogenic processes. The epidermis and dermis are most exposed to free radicals from the external environment and from the inside of the body. In inflammatory diseases of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, in the proper skin the levels of vitamin C are reduced. Therefore, delivering it to the skin using cosmetic preparations is important not only for cosmetic, but also health effect. The problem associated with the introduction of vitamin C in cosmetics is its limited penetration through the stratum corneum. Current studies are focused on searching for stable compounds of ascorbic acid and new media, which will allow for better way of delivery of ascorbic acid to the dermis in the future.
维生素C是人体健康最重要且必需的营养素之一，作为药妆品具有巨大潜力，能保护健康并使皮肤保持良好状态。通过刺激胶原蛋白生物合成，它影响人体皮肤生理，参与脯氨酸和赖氨酸的羟化过程，并在伤口愈合时参与组织重建。维生素C缺乏会导致血管功能、表皮和真皮出现异常。它是一种有效的抗氧化剂，能中和自由基，预防炎症和致癌过程。表皮和真皮最易受到来自外部环境和体内的自由基影响。在皮肤炎症性疾病，如特应性皮炎、牛皮癣中，正常皮肤中的维生素C水平会降低。因此，使用化妆品制剂将其输送到皮肤不仅对美容有重要意义，对健康也有作用。与在化妆品中引入维生素C相关的问题是其通过角质层的渗透率有限。目前的研究集中在寻找抗坏血酸的稳定化合物和新载体，以便未来能以更好的方式将抗坏血酸输送到真皮层。
