LAQV-REQUIMTE, Department of Chemistry, University of Aveiro, Campus de Santiago, 3810-193 Aveiro, Portugal.
University of the Azores, Faculty of Sciences and Technology, cE3c- Centre for Ecology, Evolution and Environmental Changes, Azorean Biodiversity Group, CHANGE-Global Change and Sustainability Institute, 9500-321 Ponta Delgada, Portugal .
Molecules. 2024 Oct 17;29(20):4917. doi: 10.3390/molecules29204917.
Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product's efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol-a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations-to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol (), which presented an IC of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.
天然化合物广泛应用于化妆品中,具有多种功效。二萜通常用作香料,增强这些配方的感官体验。然而,当前的化妆品科学趋势旨在开发多功能产品,其中传统用于质地或香气的化合物也具有生物活性,有助于提高产品的功效。在这种情况下,本研究专注于合成植醇的衍生物——一种已经存在于化妆品配方中的化合物,以增强其抗衰老特性。通过与取代苯甲酸和肉桂酸进行酯化反应合成了这些衍生物,这些酸具有抗氧化和抑制酶的特性。根据酸衍生物中的取代基不同,反应产率在 91.0%至 5.2%之间。通过 NMR 和 MS 技术确认了合成化合物的结构。通过抗氧化测定和对酪氨酸酶、弹性蛋白酶、胶原酶和透明质酸酶的抑制测定,评估了天然和新合成衍生物的化妆品潜力。这是首次报道这些衍生物的合成和化妆品评价。与植醇()相比,植醇的 IC 为 77.47 µM,其中四种衍生物具有更好的酪氨酸酶抑制活性,其中对甲氧基苯甲酸植醇的活性最高(IC = 27.9 µM),其次是苯甲酸植醇,IC 为 34.73 µM。芳香环其他位置的取代效果较差。分子对接研究证实,这些修饰增强了合成化合物与酪氨酸酶之间的相互作用。