Yi Jingyuan, Pei Liujun, Lu Danni, Sun Simin, Hu Qiushuang, Luo Chaowen, Zhang Xinjie, Wang Jiping
Shanghai Engineering Research Center for Clean Production of Textile Chemistry, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, PR, China; School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, PR China.
Shanghai Engineering Research Center for Clean Production of Textile Chemistry, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, PR, China; School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, PR China; Department of Biological and Agricultural Engineering, University of California, Davis, California 95616, United States.
Int J Biol Macromol. 2025 Jan;284(Pt 1):138159. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.138159. Epub 2024 Nov 27.
Non-aqueous media dyeing technology has highly innovative as it reduces pollution without increasing cost in polyester/cotton blended fabric dyeing. However, disperse dyes can stain in cotton component of the polyester/cotton blended fabric during dyeing process, resulting poor quality of dyed products. In this study, a groundbreaking comprehensive investigation was conducted on the dyeing behavior of C.I. Disperse Red 177 and C.I. Disperse Red 145 in non-aqueous media. The results revealed that the dyes' uptake rates on polyester components in non-aqueous medium were comparable to those in traditional water dyeing baths. Conversely, the staining rate of disperse dye on cotton fiber surface was relatively high. Interestingly, the migration of dyes from polyester surface to cotton surface after dyeing had minimal impact on staining. Thermodynamic analysis in non-aqueous media showed that the Gibbs free energy of C.I. Disperse Red 145 adsorption on cotton was higher than that of C.I. Disperse Red 177. Computational chemistry simulations showed that the terminal group of C.I. Disperse Red 177 (N-acetoxyethyl) led to stronger electrostatic interaction with cotton compared to C.I. Disperse Red 145. Therefore, disperse dyes with N-ethyl end groups have a weak interaction with the cotton and stain less on the cotton fiber surface.
非水介质染色技术具有高度创新性，因为它在聚酯/棉混纺织物染色中减少了污染且未增加成本。然而，分散染料在染色过程中会沾染聚酯/棉混纺织物的棉组分，导致染色产品质量不佳。在本研究中，对C.I.分散红177和C.I.分散红145在非水介质中的染色行为进行了开创性的全面研究。结果表明，这些染料在非水介质中对聚酯组分的上染率与传统水浴染色相当。相反，分散染料在棉纤维表面的沾染率相对较高。有趣的是，染色后染料从聚酯表面向棉表面的迁移对沾染的影响最小。非水介质中的热力学分析表明，C.I.分散红145在棉上的吸附吉布斯自由能高于C.I.分散红177。计算化学模拟表明，与C.I.分散红145相比，C.I.分散红177的端基（N-乙酰氧基乙基）与棉产生更强的静电相互作用。因此，具有N-乙基端基的分散染料与棉的相互作用较弱，在棉纤维表面的沾染较少。
