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具有卓越保湿性和递送选择性的化妆品乳液中的超微液晶

Ultra-micro Liquid Crystal in Cosmetic Emulsion with Excellent Moisture Retention and Delivery Selectivity.

作者信息

Hua Zerui, Zhang Chunxiao, He Jingru, Chen Yuyan, Zhang Shaolong, Sun Jingxia, Wang Ning, Zhang Jun, Yang Xin, Chen Jiayue, Wei Xiaolan

机构信息

Proya Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Hangzhou 310023, China.

College of Materials and Environmental Engineering, Hangzhou Dianzi University, Hangzhou 310018, China.

出版信息

ACS Omega. 2024 Nov 13;9(47):47194-47202. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.4c07717. eCollection 2024 Nov 26.

DOI:10.1021/acsomega.4c07717
PMID:39619544
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11603258/
Abstract

Compared with ordinary emulsified cosmetics, liquid crystal emulsified cosmetics have obvious advantages. In this paper, an ultra-micro liquid crystal (ULC) emulsion with particle size less than 4 μm was successfully synthesized using a simple oil-in-water emulsification method, and large liquid crystal (LLC) and non-liquid crystal (NLC) emulsions were also prepared as controls. Three kinds of emulsions were examined by polarizing microscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD), small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and cryo-transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM). Rheological tests, in vivo experiments, reconstructed Raman maps tracking selected markers and thermogravimetric (TG) results showed that the ULC emulsion expressed excellent viscoelasticity, long-term moisturizing property with barrier function and better selective delivery of active substances compared with LLC and NLC emulsions. Molecular dynamics simulation on the ULC system and deuterium order parameter plots respectively indicated that GYY (glyceryl stearate citrate) showed a tendency to form a stable structure by reducing the total interaction energy and enhancing system lamellar ordering. This work not only demonstrates the great potential of ultra-micro liquid crystals in for commercial applications in cosmetics but also offers a deeper understanding of the intrinsic properties and growth mechanisms of ultra-micro liquid crystals at the microscopic level.

摘要

与普通乳化化妆品相比，液晶乳化化妆品具有明显优势。本文采用简单的水包油乳化法成功合成了粒径小于4μm的超微液晶（ULC）乳液，并制备了大液晶（LLC）和非液晶（NLC）乳液作为对照。通过偏光显微镜、X射线衍射（XRD）、小角X射线散射（SAXS）和冷冻透射电子显微镜（cryo-TEM）对三种乳液进行了检测。流变学测试、体内实验、跟踪选定标记物的重建拉曼图谱和热重（TG）结果表明，与LLC和NLC乳液相比，ULC乳液表现出优异的粘弹性、具有屏障功能的长期保湿性能以及更好的活性物质选择性递送能力。对ULC体系的分子动力学模拟和氘序参数图分别表明，甘油硬脂酸柠檬酸酯（GYY）通过降低总相互作用能和增强体系层状有序性表现出形成稳定结构的趋势。这项工作不仅证明了超微液晶在化妆品商业应用中的巨大潜力，还在微观层面上对超微液晶的内在性质和生长机制提供了更深入的理解。

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本文引用的文献

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Langmuir. 2024 Apr 9;40(14):7723-7732. doi: 10.1021/acs.langmuir.4c00424. Epub 2024 Mar 30.
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Mechanochromic and ionic conductive cholesteric liquid crystal elastomers for biomechanical monitoring and human-machine interaction.用于生物力学监测和人机交互的机械变色和离子导电胆甾相液晶弹性体。
Mater Horiz. 2024 Jan 2;11(1):217-226. doi: 10.1039/d3mh01386c.
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A review of liquid crystal monomers: Environmental occurrence, degradation, toxicity, and human exposure of an emerging class of E-waste pollutants.
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Environ Pollut. 2023 Oct 15;335:122267. doi: 10.1016/j.envpol.2023.122267. Epub 2023 Jul 25.
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Liquid Crystal Materials for Biomedical Applications.用于生物医学应用的液晶材料。
Adv Mater. 2023 Sep;35(36):e2300220. doi: 10.1002/adma.202300220. Epub 2023 Jul 12.
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