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肉桂酸衍生物作为用于辅助治疗某些皮肤病的化妆品配方中的潜在多功能剂。

Cinnamic Acid Derivatives as Potential Multifunctional Agents in Cosmetic Formulations Used for Supporting the Treatment of Selected Dermatoses.

作者信息

Kabat Małgorzata, Popiół Justyna, Gunia-Krzyżak Agnieszka

机构信息

Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Chair of Organic Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland.

Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland.

出版信息

Molecules. 2024 Dec 9;29(23):5806. doi: 10.3390/molecules29235806.

Abstract

Cinnamic acid and its natural derivatives were primarily used in cosmetics as fragrance materials as well as skin and hair conditioners. Nowadays, not only natural but also synthetic cinnamic acid derivatives are used as active ingredients of cosmetic formulations. They still serve as fragrance ingredients but also as active ingredients supporting the treatment of selected dermatoses such as acne vulgaris, atopic dermatitis, and hyperpigmentation. They are also commonly used in anti-aging cosmetic formulations. On the other hand, several cinnamic acid derivatives used as fragrances in cosmetic products are classified as potential allergens which can cause contact dermatitis. The main mechanisms of action proved for various cinnamic acid derivatives include antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic properties. Most commonly used cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics products are hydroxy acids such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, -coumaric acid, and sinapic acid. Chemical synthesis led to several modified acids, esters, and amides, which also showed the potential to be used in cosmetic formulations.

摘要

肉桂酸及其天然衍生物主要在化妆品中用作香料以及皮肤和头发调理剂。如今,不仅天然肉桂酸衍生物,而且合成肉桂酸衍生物都被用作化妆品配方的活性成分。它们不仅仍然用作香料成分,还作为活性成分支持治疗某些皮肤病,如寻常痤疮、特应性皮炎和色素沉着。它们也常用于抗衰老化妆品配方。另一方面,在化妆品中用作香料的几种肉桂酸衍生物被归类为潜在过敏原,可引起接触性皮炎。各种肉桂酸衍生物已被证实的主要作用机制包括抗氧化、抗菌、抗炎和抗黑素生成特性。化妆品中最常用的肉桂酸衍生物是羟基酸,如阿魏酸、咖啡酸、对香豆酸和芥子酸。化学合成产生了几种改性酸、酯和酰胺,它们也显示出用于化妆品配方的潜力。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/735f/11643674/05c5c417bc27/molecules-29-05806-g003.jpg

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