Berta Patrik, Michailov Michail, Kaško Dávid, Gajdošík Jan, Běhounek Michal, Baláš Jiří
Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
Department Theory and Methodology of Sports Training, National Sports Academy "Vassil Levski", Sofia, Bulgaria.
J Sports Sci. 2025 Feb;43(3):245-255. doi: 10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316. Epub 2025 Jan 4.
Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes ( ≈ 0.75). However, despite its widespread use as an endurance test, the finger hang was found to be primarily determined by finger strength, explaining 65% and 80% of the variance in males and females, respectively. Finger strength emerged as the dominant factor, explaining the majority of variance in climbing ability (males 68%; females 64%), followed by intermittent endurance (males 28%; females 34%). These findings emphasize finger strength as the primary predictor of climbing ability and highlight the importance of intermittent endurance testing for assessing climbing-specific endurance of the finger flexors. No significant differences were found between male and female climbers in finger flexor strength and endurance when normalized to body mass.
最近的综述强调了关于运动攀岩者手指屈肌力量和耐力测试有效性的相互矛盾的研究结果，这通常是由于所使用测试的样本量小且生态效度低。为了填补这些空白，185名男性和122名女性攀岩者在特定运动环境中进行了最大手指屈肌力量、间歇性和持续性手指屈肌耐力以及手指悬垂测试，以确定这些测试的预测效度和同时效度。手指悬垂测试显示出与男女攀岩能力的最强关联（约为0.75）。然而，尽管手指悬垂测试被广泛用作耐力测试，但研究发现它主要由手指力量决定，分别解释了男性和女性65%和80%的差异。手指力量成为主导因素，解释了攀岩能力差异的大部分（男性68%；女性64%），其次是间歇性耐力（男性28%；女性34%）。这些发现强调手指力量是攀岩能力的主要预测指标，并突出了间歇性耐力测试对于评估手指屈肌特定于攀岩的耐力的重要性。当按体重进行标准化时，男女攀岩者在手指屈肌力量和耐力方面未发现显著差异。
