Chang Kuan, Wu Yuwen, Liu Zezhi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Li Zhizhen, Chen Ya, Wang Jing
Key Laboratory of Synthetic and Biological Colloids, Ministry of Education, School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China.
Adolph Innovation Laboratory, Guangzhou AOGU Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, China.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025 Aug;47(4):718-729. doi: 10.1111/ics.13063. Epub 2025 Apr 3.
Oxidative agents used in conventional hair perming damage hair fibres. This study proposes a novel perming approach employing 1,4-butylenediamine bismaleimide (1,4-BB) as a cross linking agent via thiol-Michael click chemistry to avoid oxidative harm. The perming performance and effects on hair fibre properties were investigated and compared.
1,4-BB was synthesized via an acylation reaction and evaluated for cytotoxicity using the MTT assay. Perming efficiency was compared on reduced hair cross linked by 3 wt% HO, 6 wt% NaBrO and 0.5 wt% 1,4-BB, respectively. Chemical changes during different perming methods were analysed via Raman spectroscopy, fluorescence microscopy, XRD and FT-IR characterization. Perming efficiency and durability were evaluated and explained by calculating the -SH connection ratio via X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Mechanical properties, colour and surface properties of hair samples permed by different methods were evaluated and compared.
1,4-BB was successfully prepared and exhibited no cytotoxicity over a wide concentration range. Click perming using 1,4-BB exhibited comparable perming efficiency and superior durability compared to oxidative perming methods. Higher α-helix keratin content and reduced sulfonate formation contributed to the preservation of hair mechanical properties. Click perming also benefited from the preservation of hair colour and surface properties, including morphology and hydrophobicity.
Thiol-Michael click perming offers a non-oxidative alternative with reduced hair damage and enhanced perming durability.
传统烫发中使用的氧化剂会损伤头发纤维。本研究提出一种新型烫发方法，即通过硫醇-迈克尔点击化学法使用1,4-丁二胺双马来酰亚胺（1,4-BB）作为交联剂，以避免氧化损伤。研究并比较了其烫发性能及对头发纤维性能的影响。
通过酰化反应合成1,4-BB，并使用MTT法评估其细胞毒性。分别比较了用3 wt% HO、6 wt% NaBrO和0.5 wt% 1,4-BB交联的还原头发的烫发效率。通过拉曼光谱、荧光显微镜、XRD和FT-IR表征分析不同烫发方法过程中的化学变化。通过X射线光电子能谱计算-SH连接率来评估和解释烫发效率及耐久性。评估并比较了不同方法烫发后头发样品的机械性能、颜色和表面性能。
成功制备了1,4-BB，且在较宽浓度范围内无细胞毒性。与氧化烫发方法相比，使用1,4-BB的点击烫发表现出相当的烫发效率和更高的耐久性。较高的α-螺旋角蛋白含量和减少的磺酸盐形成有助于保持头发的机械性能。点击烫发在保持头发颜色和表面性能（包括形态和疏水性）方面也有优势。
硫醇-迈克尔点击烫发提供了一种非氧化性的替代方法，可减少头发损伤并提高烫发耐久性。
