Urrea-Victoria Vanessa, Hernández Aura Rocío, Castellanos Leonardo, Alves Izabel Almeida, Novoa Diana Marcela Aragón
Departamento de Farmacia, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Sede Bogotá. Av. Carrera 30 #, 45-03, Bogotá, Colombia.
Departamento de Química, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Sede Bogotá. Av. Carrera 30 #, 45-03, Bogotá, Colombia.
Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2025 May;24(5):847-861. doi: 10.1007/s43630-025-00717-8. Epub 2025 May 8.
In recent years, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have gained attention in skincare products due to their natural photoprotective and antioxidant properties. These water-soluble compounds effectively absorb ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B radiation, with molecular absorptivity ranging from 12,400 to 58,800 M⁻·cm⁻. This review analyzes patents filed between January 2014 and December 2024 related to the use of MAAs in skincare, identifying key trends and innovations. A comprehensive search of the European Patent Office yielded 14 relevant patents. These patents showcase the increasing use of MAAs in sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and antioxidant formulations, with features such as enhanced water resistance, increased sun protection factor (SPF), and defense against electromagnetic radiation. China and Denmark led patent filings, reflecting their focus on technological advancements. Additionally, MAA-based products showed improved stability and efficacy, offering natural alternatives to synthetic UV filters. MAA concentrations in products ranged from 0.001 to 15%, and their use in nanoemulsions and self-preserving formulations marked progress in cosmetic applications. This review highlights the potential of MAAs as multifunctional skincare agents and emphasizes the global trend towards incorporating these bioactive compounds into cosmetic products.
近年来,类菌孢素氨基酸(MAAs)因其天然的光保护和抗氧化特性而在护肤品中受到关注。这些水溶性化合物能有效吸收紫外线A和紫外线B辐射,分子吸光系数在12400至58800 M⁻¹·cm⁻¹之间。本综述分析了2014年1月至2024年12月期间提交的与MAAs在护肤品中的应用相关的专利,确定了关键趋势和创新。对欧洲专利局进行全面检索后获得了14项相关专利。这些专利展示了MAAs在防晒霜、抗皱霜和抗氧化配方中的使用日益增加,具有增强的防水性、提高的防晒系数(SPF)以及抵御电磁辐射等特性。中国和丹麦在专利申请方面领先,反映出它们对技术进步的关注。此外,基于MAAs的产品表现出更好的稳定性和功效,为合成紫外线过滤剂提供了天然替代品。产品中MAAs的浓度范围为0.001%至15%,它们在纳米乳液和自防腐配方中的应用标志着化妆品应用方面的进展。本综述强调了MAAs作为多功能护肤品成分的潜力,并突出了将这些生物活性化合物纳入化妆品的全球趋势。