Papadopoulou Sofia Neonilli A, Adamantidi Theodora, Kranas Dimitrios, Cholidis Paschalis, Anastasiadou Chryssa, Tsoupras Alexandros
Hephaestus Laboratory, School of Chemistry, Faculty of Sciences, Democritus University of Thrace, Kavala University Campus, St. Lucas, 65404 Kavala, Greece.
Fisheries Research Institute, Hellenic Agricultural Organization-DIMITRA (ELGO-DIMITRA), Nea Peramos, 64007 Kavala, Greece.
Mar Drugs. 2025 Jul 26;23(8):299. doi: 10.3390/md23080299.
In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development.
近几十年来，由于对天然、可持续和高性能配方的需求不断增加，用于化妆品应用的海洋副产品衍生成分的开发显著激增。海洋动物副产品，特别是来自鱼类、甲壳类动物和软体动物的副产品，是生物活性化合物的丰富但未充分利用的来源，在药妆创新方面具有显著潜力。作为渔业和海产品加工业的废弃物产生的这些材料富含宝贵的生物活性物质，如壳聚糖、胶原蛋白、肽、氨基酸、脂肪酸、极性脂质、脂溶性维生素、类胡萝卜素、色素、酚类物质以及像羟基磷灰石这样的矿物基底物。海洋副产品生物活性物质可以通过几种提取方法分离出来，最重要的是绿色提取方法。这些化合物具有广泛的促进皮肤健康的作用，包括抗氧化、抗老化、抗炎、抗肿瘤、抗皱、抗色素沉着和伤口愈合特性。此外，其应用范围不仅限于护肤品，还包括头发、指甲和口腔护理。本综述对从海洋软体动物、甲壳类动物和鱼类副产品中获得的生物活性物质进行了全面分析，强调了以绿色和可持续方法为重点的现代提取技术。它进一步探讨了它们在化妆品配方中的作用机制和已记录的功效。最后，综述概述了当前的局限性，并为在功能性和注重环保的化妆品开发中对海洋副产品进行工业增值提供了未来展望。
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