Liu Haiyan, Wang Anning, Chen Xiaoyi, Hou Sen, Li Anzhang
Guangzhou Fanzhirong Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Huangpu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China.
Guangzhou Zhongkejian Technology Testing Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Fanzhirong Cosmetics Co. Ltd., Huangpu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China.
PLoS One. 2025 Jun 6;20(6):e0325247. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0325247. eCollection 2025.
Glabridin is widely used as a whitening agent in cosmetics, but its cytotoxicity remains a key concern in safety evaluations. In typical cytotoxicity assays, glabridin is dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) before being added to the cell culture medium because it is insoluble in water. However, our study revealed that when the DMSO solution of glabridin was mixed with cell culture medium, glabridin was rapidly released due to its poor solubility in the DMSO/water mixture. The released glabridin rapidly formed crystals, which failed to enter cells. Consequently, the whitening efficacy of glabridin was reduced. Moreover, the glabridin crystals produced higher cytotoxicity, possibly due to the physical damage caused by their sharp crystalline structures. However, encapsulating glabridin in cyclodextrin (CD) can address these challenges, offering a better approach for glabridin cytotoxicity assays. The CD encapsulation method, compared to the DMSO solution method, not only decreased the cytotoxicity of glabridin but also increased its whitening efficacy. By comparing the efficacy of glabridin dissolved in DMSO and encapsulated in CD, we discovered that the reported cytotoxicity of glabridin may have been overestimated in previous cytotoxicity studies which used DMSO as a solvent, while its whitening efficacy may have been underestimated. These findings not only offer new insights for in vitro studies of glabridin-like reagents, but also facilitate the development of safer and more effective whitening products.
光甘草定在化妆品中被广泛用作美白剂,但其细胞毒性仍是安全性评估中的关键问题。在典型的细胞毒性试验中,由于光甘草定不溶于水,所以在添加到细胞培养基之前要先溶解于二甲基亚砜(DMSO)中。然而,我们的研究表明,当光甘草定的DMSO溶液与细胞培养基混合时,由于其在DMSO/水混合物中的溶解度较差,光甘草定会迅速释放出来。释放出的光甘草定迅速形成晶体,无法进入细胞。因此,光甘草定的美白功效降低。此外,光甘草定晶体产生了更高的细胞毒性,这可能是由于其尖锐的晶体结构造成的物理损伤。然而,将光甘草定包裹在环糊精(CD)中可以解决这些问题,为光甘草定细胞毒性试验提供了更好的方法。与DMSO溶液法相比,CD包裹法不仅降低了光甘草定的细胞毒性,还提高了其美白功效。通过比较溶解在DMSO中的光甘草定和包裹在CD中的光甘草定的功效,我们发现,在以前使用DMSO作为溶剂的细胞毒性研究中,所报道的光甘草定的细胞毒性可能被高估了,而其美白功效可能被低估了。这些发现不仅为光甘草定类试剂的体外研究提供了新的见解,也有助于开发更安全、更有效的美白产品。