Fonseca Ana Paula, Ribon Renata, Cascais Lucia, Facchini Gustavo, Pinheiro Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves, Eberlin Samara, Maia Campos Patricia M B G
Sallve Comércio de Cosméticos, São Paulo, SP, Brazil.
Kosmoscience Group, Valinhos, SP, Brazil.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jun;24(6):e70282. doi: 10.1111/jocd.70282.
The development of sunscreens with properties beyond photoprotection involves carefully optimizing the blend of ingredients and employing advanced systems to ensure effective delivery through the skin layers.
The aim of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional photoprotective formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated ingredients-ascorbyl palmitate, caffeine, and resveratrol-and the active ingredients niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, bisabolol, tocopherol, and carnosine in skin protection against UV and blue light radiations, by in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies.
A preclinical approach using human explants was performed to evaluate the protective effects of a sunscreen formulation against damage induced by UV and blue light radiation. In addition, a clinical trial was carried out to evaluate skin acceptability, protection from UV-A and UV-B, collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, and skin hydration.
The results of the preclinical study showed that the proposed formulation prevented UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and stimulated the levels of epidermal opsin-3 photoreceptors, ensuring melanogenesis control. The clinical study showed that the sunscreen was well-tolerated by both skin and eyes, improved skin conditions by upregulating collagen synthesis, and moisturizing the skin.
The combination of the active ingredients in the proposed formulation was safe and effective for skin protection against ultraviolet radiation, besides promoting collagen synthesis and opsin-3 stimulus.
开发具有光防护以外特性的防晒剂需要仔细优化成分组合,并采用先进系统以确保有效透过皮肤各层。
本研究旨在通过体外、离体和临床研究,评估一种多功能光防护制剂的功效,该制剂含有纳米封装成分(棕榈酸视黄酯、咖啡因和白藜芦醇)与活性成分烟酰胺、透明质酸、红没药醇、生育酚和肌肽的混合物,用于皮肤抵御紫外线和蓝光辐射。
采用人体外植体的临床前方法来评估防晒制剂对紫外线和蓝光辐射所致损伤的防护作用。此外,开展了一项临床试验以评估皮肤可接受性、对紫外线A和紫外线B的防护、通过荧光光谱法测定的胶原蛋白合成以及皮肤水合作用。
临床前研究结果表明,所提出的制剂可防止紫外线诱导的活性氧(ROS)生成,并刺激表皮视蛋白-3光感受器水平,从而确保对黑素生成的控制。临床研究表明,该防晒霜在皮肤和眼睛方面耐受性良好,通过上调胶原蛋白合成改善皮肤状况,并使皮肤保湿。
所提出制剂中的活性成分组合对于皮肤抵御紫外线辐射是安全有效的,此外还能促进胶原蛋白合成和视蛋白-3刺激。