Skin-Whitening, Antiwrinkle, and Moisturizing Effects of (Hemsl.) Engl. Root Extracts in Cell-Based Assays and Three-Dimensional Artificial Skin Models.

This study investigated the potential cosmetic properties of the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction obtained from the roots of (Hemsl.) Engl., focusing on skin-whitening, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing effects using cell-based assays and three-dimensional (3D) artificial skin models (Neoderm-ED and Neoderm-ME). The EtOAc fraction showed significant dose-dependent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase () (72.0% inhibition at 50 µg/mL), comparable to that of kojic acid. In α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated Neoderm-ME artificial skin containing melanocytes, the EtOAc fraction reduced melanin synthesis at concentrations of 50 and 75 µg/mL and decreased melanogenesis-related gene expression, including , microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (), tyrosinase-related protein-1 () and . In the antiwrinkle assays, the EtOAc fraction effectively inhibited elastase activity (41.5% inhibition at 10 µg/mL), exceeding the efficacy of ursolic acid. In the Neoderm-ED artificial skin model, the EtOAc fraction reversed structural damage induced by particulate matter (PM10), restoring epidermal thickness and dermal density. This improvement was supported by the increased expression of skin barrier and antiwrinkle genes, including filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase-1 (), , aquaporin-3 (), collagen type I alpha 1 chain (), elastin, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases-1 (), and , as well as decreased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (, , and ). Our results indicate that the EtOAc fraction from root has considerable potential as a multifunctional cosmetic.