Ivarsson John, Yan Xi, Guiotto Anna, Pecorelli Alessandra, Sarandy Mariáurea Matias, Lynch Stephen, Anderias Sara, Choudhary Hina, White Stacy, Ferrara Francesca, Valacchi Giuseppe
Department of Food, Bioprocessing and Nutrition Sciences, Plants for Human Health Institute, NC Research Campus, NC State University, Kannapolis, North Carolina, USA.
Department of Animal Sciences, Plants for Human Health Institute, NC Research Campus, NC State University, Kannapolis, North Carolina, USA.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jul;24(7):e70306. doi: 10.1111/jocd.70306.
Premature skin aging and the growing incidence of skin conditions are closely linked to daily exposure to environmental agents. Among all air pollutants, particulate matter (PM) is regarded as one of the most aggressive in terms of skin damage, promoting degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) components and depletion of the cutaneous antioxidant defense via initiation of oxinflammatory reactions. Moreover, PM can penetrate damaged skin, exacerbating the effect of other pollutants and worsening the symptoms of existing skin conditions. Topical application of antioxidant compounds can limit and, in certain cases, even prevent skin damage.
In the present study, a randomized clinical study was conducted to evaluate the protective effects of a topically applied antioxidant serum containing 15% ascorbic acid, 0.5% ferulic acid, and 1% tocopherol (AOX Mix) against the PM-induced skin damage.
For this purpose, the back of 15 female volunteers, between 19-40 years and with skin phototypes III and IV, was pre-treated with AOX Mix and exposed daily to PM for 4 days. Skin sample biopsies were subsequently collected and subjected to histological analysis to evaluate the key markers related to skin "oxinflammaging".
The AOX Mix demonstrated protective effects against the cutaneous degradation of ECM components, including type I and III collagens, elastin, and tropoelastin. It also mitigated markers of inflammation (COX2), oxidative stress (4-hydroxynonenal), and structural damage (involucrin, filaggrin, claudin-1, desmocollin 1).
Regular topical application of an antioxidant cosmeceutical formulation represents an effective strategy to counteract the detrimental effects of environmental insults, particularly with respect to inflammaging.
皮肤过早老化和皮肤病发病率的不断上升与日常接触环境因素密切相关。在所有空气污染物中，颗粒物（PM）被认为是对皮肤损害最具侵袭性的污染物之一，它通过引发氧化炎症反应促进细胞外基质（ECM）成分的降解和皮肤抗氧化防御的消耗。此外，PM可穿透受损皮肤，加剧其他污染物的影响，并使现有皮肤病症状恶化。局部应用抗氧化化合物可以限制甚至在某些情况下预防皮肤损伤。
在本研究中，进行了一项随机临床研究，以评估局部应用含有15%抗坏血酸、0.5%阿魏酸和1%生育酚的抗氧化血清（AOX混合液）对PM诱导的皮肤损伤的保护作用。
为此，对15名年龄在19 - 40岁、皮肤光型为III型和IV型的女性志愿者的背部进行AOX混合液预处理，并每天暴露于PM中4天。随后收集皮肤样本活检组织并进行组织学分析，以评估与皮肤“氧化炎症衰老”相关的关键标志物。
AOX混合液对ECM成分的皮肤降解具有保护作用，包括I型和III型胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白和原弹性蛋白。它还减轻了炎症（COX2）、氧化应激（4 - 羟基壬烯醛）和结构损伤（内披蛋白、丝聚合蛋白、紧密连接蛋白 - 1、桥粒芯胶蛋白1）的标志物。
定期局部应用抗氧化化妆品配方是对抗环境损伤有害影响的有效策略，特别是在氧化炎症衰老方面。
