Kulawik-Pióro Agnieszka, Fryźlewicz-Kozak Beata, Tworzydło Iwona, Kruk Joanna, Ptaszek Anna
Department of Organic Chemistry and Technology, Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Technology, Cracow University of Technology, Warszawska 24, 31-155 Cracow, Poland.
Department of Engineering and Machinery for Food Industry, Faculty of Food Technology, University of Agriculture in Krakow, Balicka 122, 30-149 Krakow, Poland.
Polymers (Basel). 2025 Jun 21;17(13):1731. doi: 10.3390/polym17131731.
Starch, as a natural, low-cost, and vegan-friendly raw material, aligns well with the growing demand for sustainable, zero-waste, and waterless cosmetic products. Its biodegradability and natural origin allow for minimal environmental impact during production and disposal. Anhydrous lotion body bars, solid and water-free alternatives to traditional moisturizers, offer high concentrations of active ingredients that are more effective and have a longer shelf life. Their solid form enables packaging in paper-based containers, reducing plastic waste. To address formulation challenges such as excessive greasiness, poor absorption, or lack of structural stability, which are often associated with the high oil content of anhydrous body lotion bars, starch may serve as a promising natural additive. The aim of this study was to optimize the formulation of an innovative starch-based anhydrous lotion bar. For this purpose, physicochemical analyses of starches from various botanical sources (corn, rice, tapioca, waxy corn and potato) were performed, along with evaluations of the functional (including commercially acceptable form, hardness sufficient for application, product stability, reduced greasiness and stickiness) and mechanical properties of the resulting bars. Additionally, the rheological behavior was described using the De Kee model. The results indicate that a 2.5% starch addition, regardless of its botanical origin, provides the best balance between viscosity and ease of application. Moreover, starches with a low moisture content and high oil absorption capacity effectively reduce the greasy skin sensation. These findings demonstrate the potential of starch as a natural multifunctional additive in the development of stable, user-friendly anhydrous lotion body bars.
淀粉作为一种天然、低成本且适合纯素食者的原材料,与对可持续、零浪费和无水化妆品日益增长的需求高度契合。其生物降解性和天然来源使得在生产和处置过程中对环境的影响最小。无水乳液身体棒是传统保湿产品的固体且无水替代品,含有高浓度活性成分,效果更佳且保质期更长。其固体形态能够采用纸质容器包装,减少塑料废弃物。为应对无水身体乳液棒含油量高常带来的诸如过度油腻、吸收性差或结构稳定性不足等配方挑战,淀粉可能是一种很有前景的天然添加剂。本研究的目的是优化一种创新型淀粉基无水乳液棒的配方。为此,对来自不同植物来源(玉米、大米、木薯、糯玉米和土豆)的淀粉进行了物理化学分析,并对所得棒体的功能特性(包括商业可接受形式、应用所需硬度、产品稳定性、降低油腻感和粘性)及机械性能进行了评估。此外,使用德凯模型描述了流变行为。结果表明,无论植物来源如何,添加2.5%的淀粉能在粘度和易用性之间实现最佳平衡。此外,低水分含量和高吸油能力的淀粉能有效减少皮肤油腻感。这些发现证明了淀粉作为天然多功能添加剂在开发稳定、用户友好型无水乳液身体棒方面的潜力。