Marto J, Gouveia L F, Gonçalves L, Chiari-Andréo B G, Isaac V, Pinto P, Oliveira E, Almeida A J, Ribeiro H M
Research Institute for Medicines and Pharmaceutical Sciences (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Lisbon, Portugal.
UNESP - Univ. Estadual Paulista, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Araraquara, Brazil.
J Photochem Photobiol B. 2016 Sep;162:56-64. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2016.06.026. Epub 2016 Jun 16.
Green coffee oil and modified starch were recently found to have an enhanced protection effect against UV radiation. Therefore, this work aimed to develop an innovative sunscreen formulation based on Pickering emulsions concept, i.e., surfactant-free emulsions stabilized by physical UV filters associated natural oils as a key strategy for prevention against UV-induced skin damage. The Pickering emulsions of different compositions were characterized in terms of pH, mechanical, physical and microbiological stability by a thorough pharmaceutical control. In addition, the sun protection factor (SPF) as well as the in vitro and in vivo biological properties of the final formulations, including Episkin®, HRIPT and sunscreen water resistance. Formulation studies demonstrated the addition of physical UV filters was beneficial, leading to the inclusion of ZnO and TiO2 to ensure a high SPF against UVA and UVB, respectively. Although starch particles presented no intrinsic photoprotection properties, they proved to be a SPF promoter by a synergistic effect. Green coffee oil was the selected natural oil due to the highest SPF, when compared to other natural oils tested. Besides the excellent sunscreen activity confirmed by in vitro and in vivo results, the final formulations proved to be also suitable for topical use according to the rheological assessment and stability throughout the study period (3months). In conclusion, the combination of three multifunctional solid particles and green coffee oil, contributed to achieve a stable and effective innovative sunscreen with a wide range of UV radiation protection.
最近发现绿咖啡油和变性淀粉对紫外线辐射具有增强的防护作用。因此，本研究旨在基于皮克林乳液概念开发一种创新的防晒配方，即以物理紫外线过滤剂稳定的无表面活性剂乳液，并结合天然油脂，作为预防紫外线引起的皮肤损伤的关键策略。通过全面的药物控制，对不同组成的皮克林乳液的pH值、机械、物理和微生物稳定性进行了表征。此外，还研究了最终配方的防晒系数（SPF）以及体外和体内生物学特性，包括Episkin®、人体重复性开放型贴斑试验（HRIPT）和防晒防水性。配方研究表明，添加物理紫外线过滤剂是有益的，因此加入了氧化锌（ZnO）和二氧化钛（TiO2），分别确保对UVA和UVB具有高SPF。尽管淀粉颗粒本身没有光保护特性，但通过协同效应，它们被证明是一种SPF促进剂。与其他测试的天然油相比，绿咖啡油因具有最高的SPF而被选为天然油。除了体外和体内结果证实的优异防晒活性外，根据流变学评估和整个研究期间（3个月）的稳定性，最终配方也被证明适用于局部使用。总之，三种多功能固体颗粒与绿咖啡油的组合，有助于实现一种稳定有效的创新防晒霜，具有广泛的紫外线辐射防护能力。
