He Chunyan, Wang Ranran, Zhang Qiao, Wang Yehong, Huang Nan
L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Dec;24(12):e70592. doi: 10.1111/jocd.70592.
Recombinant human collagen peptides (rhCol peptides) have demonstrated considerable promise in various biomedical applications, including wound healing, dermatological treatments, aesthetic procedures, cosmetic formulations, and personal healthcare. Recently, their incorporation as a bioactive component in dermal filler products has gained significant attraction within the aesthetic and cosmetic fields.
To elucidate the beneficial bio-efficacy of rhCol peptides as a dermal filler, underlying mechanisms from both the cell and tissue levels were explored.
The stimulatory effect of rhCol peptides on extracellular matrix (ECM) production was confirmed in 2D human fibroblast cultures at mRNA levels. Subsequently, its impact on skin rejuvenation was illustrated, utilizing a novel, in-house developed 3D in vitro filler biomimetic skin model, tissue morphology, epidermal proliferation and differentiation, as well as dermal ECM deposition were investigated. Transcriptomic analysis further offered an in-depth view of molecular pathways underlying the phenotypical change observed at cellular and tissue levels.
In the 2D cell model, matrix remodeling-related genes such as Collagen type I and III, Elastin, Fibrillin 1, Hyaluronic acid synthases 1, 2, and 3 were significantly upregulated upon treatment with rhCol III peptides. Its direct binding to the dermal scaffold was confirmed within a novel filler biomimetic in vitro skin model, providing compelling evidence of their beneficial effects on both epidermal and dermal compartments, embodied in improved epidermis regeneration (Ki67, COL17A1) and dermis remodeling (FBN1 and glycosaminoglycans). Furthermore, transcriptomic analysis provided valuable insights into the potential mechanisms of downregulated inflammation, senescence and apoptosis; upregulated integrin binding; and extracellular matrix formation resulted from the binding of rhCol III peptides to the dermal scaffold.
These findings collectively support the pro-ECM potential of such rhCol III peptides as a promising biomaterial for dermal filler, as well as potential cosmetic applications. Limited by the gap between in vitro mimetic model and real injection, further clinical trials should be taken to reconfirm the potential benefits.
重组人胶原蛋白肽（rhCol肽）在各种生物医学应用中已展现出巨大潜力，包括伤口愈合、皮肤病治疗、美容手术、化妆品配方及个人护理等领域。最近，将其作为生物活性成分纳入真皮填充产品在美容和化妆品领域引起了极大关注。
为阐明rhCol肽作为真皮填充剂的有益生物功效，从细胞和组织水平探索其潜在机制。
在二维人成纤维细胞培养中，于mRNA水平证实了rhCol肽对细胞外基质（ECM）产生的刺激作用。随后，利用一种新的、内部开发的三维体外填充剂仿生皮肤模型阐述了其对皮肤年轻化的影响，研究了组织形态、表皮增殖与分化以及真皮ECM沉积情况。转录组分析进一步深入了解了在细胞和组织水平观察到的表型变化背后的分子途径。
在二维细胞模型中，用rhCol III肽处理后，与基质重塑相关的基因如I型和III型胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白、原纤蛋白1、透明质酸合成酶1、2和3显著上调。在一种新型填充剂仿生体外皮肤模型中证实了其与真皮支架的直接结合，为其对表皮和真皮层的有益作用提供了有力证据，表现为改善表皮再生（Ki67、COL17A1）和真皮重塑（FBN1和糖胺聚糖）。此外，转录组分析为炎症、衰老和凋亡下调；整合素结合上调；以及rhCol III肽与真皮支架结合导致细胞外基质形成的潜在机制提供了有价值的见解。
这些发现共同支持了此类rhCol III肽作为真皮填充剂及潜在化妆品应用的有前景生物材料的促ECM潜力。受体外模拟模型与实际注射之间差距的限制，应进行进一步的临床试验以再次确认其潜在益处。
