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[从经验性“饮食学”到理性饮食学]

[From empirical 'dietetics' to rational dietetics].

作者信息

Lacroix E

出版信息

Verh K Acad Geneeskd Belg. 1996;58(3):201-37.

PMID:8848872
Abstract

From the outset, the terms 'dietetics' and 'diet' applied in their general acceptance to all the measures, whether or not alimentary, that can provide optimal living conditions for both the healthy and the diseased. In that meaning they are synonymous with hygiene or way of life. In their more restricted acceptance, which will be used henceforth, the terms apply to the choice of food and beverages which promotes or restores health of normal and sick people. In its most restricted meaning, the term 'diet' is confined to the nutrition of the sick, consisting either in a more or less drastic limitation of food intake, or in the prescription of specific foods. Due to the absence of scientific knowledge concerning the processes of life in general, and in particular concerning the physiology of the digestive system and the metabolism, the 'dietetic' rules and principles were governed until the middle of the nineteenth century by empiricism with a strong background of intuition, tradition, magic and religion. In his continuous struggle for life, man has been confronted with the dramatic consequences of the ingestion of toxic and spoiled food. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, cramps and eventually death have soon been linked with the ingestion of particular food, although the symptoms were attributed to supernatural forces. Intuitively and later by laws and prohibition, the use of certain foods was to be avoided or was forbidden. Moreover, with the development of cultures and civilizations food and food intake have acquired -besides their vital necessity-social and often magic-religious values which sometimes resulted in food taboos. In most civilizations these taboos have particulars in common: they are mainly directed against food of animal origin, more against meat than fish and particularly against red meat, which is being considered as symbol of strength and power and as endowed with exciting and stimulatory properties. The meat taboos are selective for some animals or parts of an animal, but what is allowed in some cultures is forbidden in others. More or less severe and long lasting abstinence from food or fasting was also self-inflicted or imposed to individuals or whole populations by religion, sometimes seemingly on hygienic grounds but in most cases without any logic reason. Since the earliest time, diets take-together with other dietetic measures-a prevailing place in the treatment of the sick and sickness. Most alimentary prescriptions are based on a more or less drastic restriction of food and - particularly in the seventeenth century with the iatrochemical school - also of fluids. The restrictions were not only quantitative, but also qualitative with restriction of meat consumption-particularly of red meat-and the prescription of more or less diluted decoctions of barley (infusions) or broth. The numerous works on 'dietetics' published-thanks to the development of printing-from the seventeenth on through the nineteenth century concern mainly the description of foodstuffs and beverages available at the time, and of the ways of preparing them. They also provide indications concerning the way these foodstuffs can improve health and/or list which of them can be prescribed or must be avoided in the treatment of the sick and of specific diseases. Some of these 'dietetical' prescriptions and maxims seem perfectly valid from a scientific and therapeutical point of view, - at least according to our actual knowledge - however, many are totally ineffective or are ridiculous and even dangerous. Except for the "dietetical" measures imposed by public hygiene or by religion to everyone, most of the dieteticotherapeutical prescriptions (food restrictions, clysters, purgation, bleeding) involved only the small fraction of the population that could afford medical assistance. The common people - the majority - could afford neither medical help, nor food abuse - except for an occasional feast - and had only access to a limited quantity and choi

摘要

从一开始,“饮食学”和“饮食”这两个术语在其普遍接受的意义上适用于所有措施,无论是否与饮食相关,只要这些措施能为健康者和患病者提供最佳生活条件。在这个意义上,它们与卫生学或生活方式同义。在更狭义的理解中(这也是此后将采用的含义),这两个术语适用于促进或恢复正常人和病人健康的食物和饮料的选择。“饮食”这个术语最狭义的含义仅限于病人的营养,包括或多或少严格限制食物摄入量,或者规定特定的食物。由于缺乏关于生命过程,特别是关于消化系统生理学和新陈代谢的科学知识,直到19世纪中叶,“饮食学”的规则和原则一直受经验主义支配,且带有浓厚的直觉、传统、魔法和宗教背景。在人类为生存而不断斗争的过程中,人们面临着摄入有毒和变质食物带来的严重后果。恶心、呕吐、腹泻、痉挛,最终死亡很快就与特定食物的摄入联系起来,尽管这些症状被归因于超自然力量。人们凭直觉,后来通过法律和禁令,避免或禁止使用某些食物。此外,随着文化和文明的发展,食物和食物摄入除了具有维持生命的必要性外,还获得了社会以及常常是魔法 - 宗教方面的价值,这有时导致了食物禁忌。在大多数文明中,这些禁忌有一些共同特点:它们主要针对动物性食物,对肉类的禁忌比对鱼类更多,尤其针对红肉,因为红肉被视为力量和权力的象征,具有令人兴奋和刺激的特性。肉类禁忌对某些动物或动物的某些部位有选择性,但在某些文化中允许的在其他文化中则被禁止。或多或少严格且持久的禁食或斋戒也是宗教对个人或全体人群施加的,有时看似基于卫生理由,但在大多数情况下没有任何合理依据。从最早的时候起,饮食连同其他饮食措施在治疗病人和疾病方面就占据了主导地位。大多数饮食处方基于或多或少严格限制食物,特别是在17世纪随着医化学派的兴起,还包括对液体的限制。这些限制不仅是定量的,也是定性的,包括限制肉类消费,特别是红肉,以及开或多或少稀释的大麦煎剂(浸剂)或肉汤。从17世纪到(此处原文似乎不完整,推测是到19世纪),由于印刷术的发展,出版了大量关于“饮食学”的著作,主要涉及当时可得的食物和饮料的描述以及它们的制备方法。它们还提供了关于这些食物如何改善健康的指示,和/或列出在治疗病人和特定疾病时哪些食物可以开处方或必须避免。从科学和治疗的角度来看,其中一些“饮食学”处方和格言似乎完全有效——至少根据我们目前的知识是这样,然而,许多处方完全无效,或者荒谬甚至危险。除了公共卫生或宗教对每个人施加的“饮食学”措施外,大多数饮食治疗处方(食物限制、灌肠、泻药、放血)只涉及少数能够负担医疗救助的人群。普通大众——大多数人——既负担不起医疗帮助,也没有食物滥用的情况(除了偶尔的盛宴),并且只能获得有限数量和种类的食物。

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引用本文的文献

1
Food taboos: their origins and purposes.食物禁忌:其起源与目的。
J Ethnobiol Ethnomed. 2009 Jun 29;5:18. doi: 10.1186/1746-4269-5-18.