Bonté F, Saunois A, Pinguet P, Meybeck A
LVMH Recherche, Nanterre, France.
Arch Dermatol Res. 1997 Jan;289(2):78-82. doi: 10.1007/s004030050158.
The internal stratum corneum lipid composition was investigated in relation to depth in vivo in healthy human volunteers by extraction following one, three or five strippings. Automated multiple development high-performance thin-layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) and gas chromatography (GC) followed by normalized principal component analysis showed a decrease in the amount of lipids extracted after one, three and five strippings. Between levels 0, 1, 3 and 5 the stratum corneum lipid composition showed an increase in phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate at level 3, a decrease in ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids after level 1, and a slight decrease in sterol esters at level 3. Lipids extracted after three strippings displayed a characteristic composition with an increase in the proportion of phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate. Free fatty acid analysis in relation to depth revealed a decrease in the amounts of C14:0, C16:0, C16:1, C18:0 and C18:1 between levels 1 and 5 and an increase in the C24:0. A decrease in the unsaturated/saturated chain ratio with depth was also observed, reflecting a greater decrease in unsaturated than saturated free fatty acids. A decrease in the ratios of free fatty acids to cholesterol and free fatty acids to ceramides after three and five strippings, respectively, and previously reported results, confirm the importance of this level of stratum corneum lipids in skin barrier properties.
通过一次、三次或五次剥离后的提取，对健康人类志愿者体内角质层内部脂质组成与深度的关系进行了研究。采用自动多次展开高效薄层色谱法（AMD-HPTLC）和气相色谱法（GC），随后进行归一化主成分分析，结果显示一次、三次和五次剥离后提取的脂质数量减少。在0、1、3和5层之间，角质层脂质组成显示，在第3层磷脂和胆固醇-3-硫酸盐增加，在第1层后神经酰胺、胆固醇和游离脂肪酸减少，在第3层甾醇酯略有减少。三次剥离后提取的脂质呈现出一种特征性组成，磷脂和胆固醇-3-硫酸盐的比例增加。与深度相关的游离脂肪酸分析显示，在第1层和第5层之间，C14:0、C16:0、C16:1、C18:0和C18:1的含量减少，而C24:0增加。还观察到不饱和/饱和链比率随深度降低，这反映出不饱和游离脂肪酸的减少幅度大于饱和游离脂肪酸。分别在三次和五次剥离后，游离脂肪酸与胆固醇以及游离脂肪酸与神经酰胺的比率降低，以及先前报道的结果，证实了角质层脂质这一水平在皮肤屏障特性中的重要性。
