Characterization of the stratum corneum lipid matrix using fluorescence spectroscopy.

Using fluorescence techniques, we studied the dynamics of the lipid bilayer matrix of human stratum corneum (SC) and compared the results with that of distearoyl-phosphatidylcholine (DSPC). We employed a series of 9-anthroyloxy fatty acids (AF) that partitioned into the bilayer, enabling us to evaluate this structure as a function of depth within the lamellae. With AF probes, the re-orientation of the fluorophore is known to be affected by the polarity, hydrogen bonding, and rigidity of the surrounding medium, altering the emission maximum and lifetime in the excited state. In addition, we evaluated quenching, in which iodide collides with the fluorophore, revealing information on the accessibility of the fluorophore located in the bilayer. The emission and lifetime data showed that the reorientation of the fluorophore in SC was more hindered than in DSPC, indicating that SC bilayers were more rigid than DSPC bilayers. Quenching data of both SC and DSPC indicated that the deeper the fluorophore was positioned in the bilayer, the less accessible it was to iodide, pointing to a gradient in accessibility. In addition, the quenching results also showed that the SC is less accessible to iodide than in DSPC. The observed differences in bilayer rigidity and quencher accessibility between the two systems can be explained by differences in lipid composition and hydration. Whereas the DSPC bilayer consists of phospholipids, SC bilayers are composed of more anhydrous lipids like cholesterol and ceramides, which form a tight bilayer packing. In this way SC lipids exist in a relatively anhydrous and rigid environment, forming an effective diffusion barrier to water and ions.