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欧洲化妆品协会(EEMCO)关于止汗剂和除臭剂功效评估的指南。

EEMCO guidance for the efficacy assessment of antiperspirants and deodorants.

作者信息

Piérard G E, Elsner P, Marks R, Masson P, Paye M

机构信息

Department of Dermatopathology, University Medical Center Sart Tilman, Liège, Belgium.

出版信息

Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2003 Sep-Oct;16(5):324-42. doi: 10.1159/000072072.

Abstract

Overproduction of sweat, sweaty skin and body odours are unpleasant for many social groups. Body cleansing products are designed to combat these undesirable features of skin. In addition, antiperspirant and deodorant products are more specifically used in the underarm site by a large part of the adult population. Antiperspirants are offered to control emotionally triggered sweating in the armpit. Deodorants are designed to combat malodour generated from bacteria-modified sweat. This review summarizes the physiology of eccrine, apocrine and apoeccrine sweat glands. The mechanisms of action of antiperspirants and deodorants are described as well as the factors influencing their efficacies. A series of tests using various measurement methods can be used to demonstrate the efficacy of antiperspirants. These include the gravimetric method, water evaporation quantification, electrodermal measurements, staining procedures, dye injections and cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings and casting replicas. Deodorant efficacy can be evaluated by sensory assessments performed by an expert panel. Indirect support is provided by visualization of apocrine gland excretion and collection of sweat and volatile compounds. Microbiological assessments and chromatographic analysis also provide indirect information.

摘要

出汗过多、皮肤多汗和体味对许多社会群体来说都令人不悦。身体清洁产品旨在对抗皮肤的这些不良特征。此外,很大一部分成年人口在腋下部位更特别地使用止汗剂和除臭剂产品。止汗剂用于控制腋下因情绪引发的出汗。除臭剂旨在对抗由细菌改变的汗液产生的恶臭。本综述总结了小汗腺、顶泌汗腺和顶浆分泌汗腺的生理学。描述了止汗剂和除臭剂的作用机制以及影响其功效的因素。一系列使用各种测量方法的测试可用于证明止汗剂的功效。这些方法包括重量法、水分蒸发量化、皮肤电测量、染色程序、染料注射、氰基丙烯酸酯皮肤表面剥离和铸型复制品。除臭剂的功效可由专家小组进行的感官评估来评估。通过顶泌汗腺排泄的可视化以及汗液和挥发性化合物的收集提供间接支持。微生物学评估和色谱分析也提供间接信息。

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