Rawlings A V, Canestrari David A, Dobkowski Brian
AVR Consulting, Ltd., Cheshire, UK.
Dermatol Ther. 2004;17 Suppl 1:49-56. doi: 10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1006.x.
The principles of humectancy, emolliency, and occlusion, all central to stratum corneum (SC) maintenance, continue to drive the development of novel moisturizing technologies. Humectants promote water retention within the SC, whereas occlusives generally minimize water loss to the external environment. The complementary occlusive activity of emollients contributes to SC hydration as well. Moisturization technologies, ranging from face care to hand and body care, vary in the types and levels of humectants, emollients (including lipids), and occlusives; accordingly, their therapeutic effects differ as well. Emulsification of these components into a single formulation-the technologies of which are as varied as their individual components-is thought to enhance the aesthetics of the moisturizer and its overall moisturization efficiency. The present article reviews the current approaches to SC moisturization, increasingly viewed as critical to its structural and functional integrity, and to fundamental skin care.
保湿、润肤和封闭是角质层（SC）维持的核心原则，它们继续推动着新型保湿技术的发展。保湿剂促进角质层内的水分保留，而封闭剂通常将水分流失降至外部环境的最低限度。润肤剂的互补封闭活性也有助于角质层的水合作用。从面部护理到手部和身体护理，保湿技术在保湿剂、润肤剂（包括脂质）和封闭剂的类型和水平上各不相同；因此，它们的治疗效果也有所不同。将这些成分乳化到单一配方中——其技术与各个成分一样多样——被认为可以提高保湿剂的美观性及其整体保湿效率。本文综述了目前角质层保湿的方法，角质层保湿越来越被认为对其结构和功能完整性以及基础皮肤护理至关重要。
