DSM Nutritional Products AG, Kaiseraugst, Switzerland.
Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Dec;44(6):703-718. doi: 10.1111/ics.12814. Epub 2022 Sep 21.
The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.
We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results.
The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin.
Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered.
本研究旨在比较面部皮肤水分含量的电导率和电容测量数据,并评估和讨论不同方法的优缺点。
我们测量了 125 名中国女性 30 个预先定义的面部部位的皮肤电容(Corneometer® CM 825)和皮肤电导率(Skicon-200EX®),每个设备产生 3750 个读数。对数据进行分析和比较,并通过在个体读数之间进行插值并将值转换为颜色,为电容、电导率、相对差异(Δ%)和相关性(R 值)生成连续的彩色地图,并在 3D 头像上生成。这种可视化方法可以更好地解释结果。
这种方法揭示了面部皮肤水分含量的复杂性。面部水分含量图中的相似性和差异非常明显。由于 Skicon 在测量高水分含量方面的优越性,与 Corneometer 图谱相比,额部的皮肤水分差异明显,这可能与 Skicon 在角质层内的更浅层测量有关。相反,使用 Corneometer 对面部皮肤水分含量在鼻唇沟的复杂性有了更深入的了解。两种仪器之间的最佳一致性在两个特定但分开的面部区域发现,一个在眼睛内部区域周围,另一个在鼻唇沟和斜向、侧面下颌骨之间的线上。有趣的是,两种仪器的数据均不是正态分布,且偏度相反。除了 Skicon 的脸颊和下巴外,所有面部聚类彼此之间均有统计学差异(p<0.001)。在一些面部部位,Corneometer 的方差百分比大于预期,这可能是由于角质层生理学和生物化学的差异所致。Corneometer 的 48 AU 和 Skicon 的 132 μS 被认为是面部皮肤正常水合的截断值。
两种设备都有其优缺点,这表明皮肤水分的生物仪器测量实际上比通常认为的更为复杂,并且不同的面部区域和使用多种仪器尚未得到充分考虑。