Monheit Gary D
Department of Dermatology, University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, Alabama, USA.
Skin Therapy Lett. 2004 Feb;9(2):6-11.
With so many new peel preparations on the market today, the dermatologist must ask himself basic questions concerning the products. The most important question is directed to the medical literature rather than the advertising or marketing campaign so common among market-driven cosmetic products. Since all peeling agents--superficial, medium depth and deep--are derived from basic chemicals known to cause exfoliation, destruction and/or inflammation of skin in a controlled manner, the clinician must ask what is new and better about the product. Peeling agents, regardless of their proprietary new name, fall into chemical families. The clinical evaluation of these generic agents is well documented in our literature as to efficacy, technical care and safety. In addition, combinations of peeling agents have been presented in the dermatologic cosmetic literature with scientific clinical trials and histology. These include: 1) The Gordon-Baker phenol peel; 2) Combination medium depth peeling; 3) Glycolic acid formulations. It is the responsibility of the dermatologic surgeon to be in control of his chemicals and his products. It is thus necessary for him to understand all the products and the peel formulation and be sure it has undergone the test of objective scientific study with clear clinical evaluations and histology. Only then will we truly know the effectiveness of the agents we are using for exfoliating and resurfacing.
如今市场上有如此多新型的焕肤制剂，皮肤科医生必须对这些产品提出一些基本问题。最重要的问题是针对医学文献，而非市场驱动型化妆品中常见的广告或营销活动。由于所有的焕肤剂——浅表性、中等深度和深度焕肤剂——均源自已知能以可控方式导致皮肤剥脱、破坏和/或炎症的基础化学物质，临床医生必须追问该产品有哪些新颖和更优之处。焕肤剂，无论其拥有怎样新的专利名称，都属于化学类别。在我们的文献中，关于这些通用型焕肤剂在疗效、技术护理和安全性方面的临床评估已有充分记载。此外，皮肤科美容文献中还介绍了结合科学临床试验和组织学的多种焕肤剂组合。这些包括：1）戈登 - 贝克苯酚焕肤；2）联合中等深度焕肤；3）乙醇酸配方。皮肤科外科医生有责任掌控好他所使用的化学物质和产品。因此，他有必要了解所有产品及其焕肤配方，并确保其经过了具有明确临床评估和组织学的客观科学研究的检验。只有这样，我们才能真正了解我们用于皮肤剥脱和表面重塑的制剂的有效性。
