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尤卡坦半岛饮食的可口可乐化

Coca-colonization of diets in the Yucatan.

作者信息

Leatherman Thomas L, Goodman Alan

机构信息

Department of Anthropology, University of South Carolina, Columbia, SC 29208, USA.

出版信息

Soc Sci Med. 2005 Aug;61(4):833-46. doi: 10.1016/j.socscimed.2004.08.047. Epub 2004 Dec 10.

Abstract

Over the past three decades, tourism-based economic development has transformed social and economic conditions in the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. Mayan communities have become directly involved in the changing economy as the main source of inexpensive labor for construction and service jobs at tourism centers, and as sites of ecotourism and archeotourism. In this paper, we address how these macro-processes of change intersect locally with the commoditization of food systems, diets and nutrition in four Yucatec Mayan communities with differing relationships to the tourist economy. Yucatec Mayan diets have become increasingly dependent on purchased foods, and reflect a greater consumption of commercialized processed foods. Coca-Cola, an international icon of US culture, along with other local and internationally owned calorie-dense but nutrient-poor snack foods, is now a common element of Mayan diets, leading to what we call "coca-colonization." The consequences of this diet, likely exacerbated by the increased consumption of snack foods, include an apparent increase in overweight and obese adults as well as signs of growth stunting in children. The Maya we talked with recognize both the potential disruption that tourism brings to all aspects of their lives and the necessity of jobs that tourism creates to meet their families' basic needs.

摘要

在过去三十年里,以旅游业为基础的经济发展改变了墨西哥尤卡坦半岛的社会和经济状况。玛雅社区已直接参与到不断变化的经济中,成为旅游中心建设和服务岗位廉价劳动力的主要来源,以及生态旅游和考古旅游的场所。在本文中,我们探讨了这些宏观变化过程如何在当地与四个与旅游经济关系不同的尤卡坦玛雅社区的食品系统、饮食和营养商品化相互交织。尤卡坦玛雅人的饮食越来越依赖购买的食物,并且商业化加工食品的消费量更大。可口可乐作为美国文化的国际标志,连同其他本地和国际品牌的高热量但营养匮乏的休闲食品,如今已成为玛雅人饮食中的常见元素,这导致了我们所说的“可口可乐殖民化”。这种饮食的后果,可能因休闲食品消费的增加而加剧,包括超重和肥胖成年人明显增多以及儿童生长发育迟缓的迹象。我们与之交谈的玛雅人既认识到旅游业给他们生活的各个方面带来的潜在破坏,也认识到旅游业创造的工作岗位对于满足家庭基本需求的必要性。

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