Gehring W
Hautklinik am Klinikum der Stadt Karlsruhe, Karlsruhe, Germany.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):88-93. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x.
Nicotinic acid (also generally known as niacin) and niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) are similarly effective as a vitamin because they can be converted into each other within the organism. The blanket term vitamin B(3) is used for both. Niacinamide is a component of important coenzymes involved in hydrogen transfer. Here, the two codehydrogenases, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP) are of central importance. Topical application of niacinamide has a stabilizing effect on epidermal barrier function, seen as a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an improvement in the moisture content of the horny layer. Niacinamide leads to an increase in protein synthesis (e.g. keratin), has a stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, speeds up the differentiation of keratinocytes, and raises intracellular NADP levels. In ageing skin, topical application of niacinamide improves the surface structure, smoothes out wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis. It is possible to demonstrate anti-inflammatory effects in acne, rosacea and nitrogen mustard-induced irritation. Because of its verifiable beneficial effects, niacinamide would be a suitable component in cosmetic products for use in disorders of epidermal barrier function, for ageing skin, for improving pigmentary disorders and for use on skin prone to acne.
烟酸(通常也称为尼克酸)和烟酰胺(也称为尼克酰胺)作为维生素具有相似的功效,因为它们在生物体内可以相互转化。这两者都用统称维生素B(3)表示。烟酰胺是参与氢转移的重要辅酶的组成部分。在这里,两种辅酶,烟酰胺腺嘌呤二核苷酸(NAD)和烟酰胺腺嘌呤二核苷酸磷酸(NADP)至关重要。局部应用烟酰胺对表皮屏障功能有稳定作用,表现为经表皮水分流失减少和角质层水分含量提高。烟酰胺可导致蛋白质合成增加(如角蛋白),对神经酰胺合成有刺激作用,加速角质形成细胞的分化,并提高细胞内NADP水平。在衰老皮肤中,局部应用烟酰胺可改善表面结构,抚平皱纹并抑制光致癌作用。在痤疮、酒渣鼻和氮芥引起的刺激中可表现出抗炎作用。由于其可证实的有益效果,烟酰胺将是用于表皮屏障功能障碍、衰老皮肤、改善色素沉着紊乱以及用于易长痤疮皮肤的化妆品中的合适成分。