Kim Young Heui, Kim Ki Soo, Han Chang Sung, Yang Hong Chul, Park Sun Hee, Ko Kang Ii, Lee Soo Hee, Kim Ki Ho, Lee Nam Ho, Kim Jung Mi, Son Kyung-Hun
R&D Center, Bioland Ltd., Byongchon, Chonan, Chungnam, 330-860, Republic of Korea.
J Cosmet Sci. 2007 Jan-Feb;58(1):19-33.
In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from Jeju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera (leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC(50)<30 microg/ml). Among these extracts, Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome) extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity (SC(50)=4.7 microg/ml). In the anti-elastase inhibition assay, seven extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), showed high inhibitory activity (>50% at 100 mug/ml). Among these extracts, Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC(50) = 46.7 mug/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, Typha orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum (whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), Nymphaea tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.
为了寻找新的天然来源的活性化妆品成分，我们筛选了约60种从韩国最南端的济州岛采集的植物。我们研究了它们的自由基清除活性、弹性蛋白酶抑制活性以及MMP - 1 mRNA表达的降低情况，以开发作为化妆品原料的抗衰老成分。在自由基清除能力测定中，包括香蒲（种子）和榧树（叶子）在内的12种提取物表现出显著的自由基清除活性（高达SC(50)<30微克/毫升）。在这些提取物中，睡莲（根茎）提取物表现出最高的自由基清除活性（SC(50)=4.7微克/毫升）。在抗弹性蛋白酶抑制测定中，包括香蒲（种子）和水蓼（全株）在内的7种提取物表现出高抑制活性（在100微克/毫升时>50%）。在这些提取物中，水蓼（全株）提取物表现出最高的弹性蛋白酶抑制活性（IC(50)=46.7微克/毫升）。在使用RT - PCR的MMP - 1表达测定中，香蒲（种子）、尖叶石韦（根）和辣椒（全株）表现出比用作对照的表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯略低的抑制活性。此外，包括水蓼（全株）、光叶蚊子草（根）、睡莲（根）和山茶（叶）在内的4种提取物完全抑制了人成纤维细胞中MMP - 1的表达。结果表明，60种植物提取物中的4种可能具有作为抗衰老化妆品天然活性成分的潜力。
