Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland.
Department of Industrial Chemistry, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom, Chrobrego 27, 26-600 Radom, Poland.
Molecules. 2021 May 10;26(9):2809. doi: 10.3390/molecules26092809.
Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from L., L., L., L. and L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of L., L. and L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of L. and L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.
如今，天然染料受到化妆品和食品行业的期待。与合成染料相比，源自天然来源的着色剂对环境更友好，对人类健康更安全。在这项工作中，评估了来自 L.、L.、L.、L. 和 L. 的植物提取物作为化妆品行业的天然和功能性染料。通过测定它们抑制胶原酶和弹性蛋白酶活性的能力，测定了对角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞系的细胞毒性以及抗氧化和抗衰老特性。此外，还确定了提取物的组成。还将获得的提取物应用于面霜制剂中，并进行颜色分析。结果表明，所获得的提取物的特征为无细胞毒性和高抗氧化能力。提取物还显示出很强的抑制胶原酶活性和适度抑制弹性蛋白酶的能力，并在涂于皮肤后提供有效且持久的保湿作用。应用分析表明，L.、L. 和 L. 的提取物可用作有效的化妆品染料，可在产品储存期间获得强烈且稳定的颜色。尽管 L. 和 L. 的提取物具有有益的作用作为活性成分，但它们不能有效地用作化妆品染料，因为含有这些提取物的化妆品乳液在颜色上与不含提取物的乳液没有显著差异。
