Baumann Leslie, Rodriguez David, Taylor Susan C, Wu Jessica
University of Miami Cosmetic Center, Florida, USA.
Cutis. 2006 Dec;78(6 Suppl):2-19.
Changing US demographics indicate that dermatologists will treat an increasing number of individuals of color. Early research on cutaneous anatomy and physiology was performed mostly in white populations. However, new research is elucidating similarities and differences in skin of color and white skin with regard to skin barrier, pigmentation, and sensitivity. Two of the most important issues are skin lightening and brightening. Products for use on skin of color typically should be gentle because of the proclivity of more deeply pigmented skin to develop pigmentary abnormalities in response to skin irritation or trauma. Increasing patient interest in natural remedies has been matched by research on the use of natural ingredients in dermatology. The relative gentleness of many of these products, coupled with excellent efficacy, makes natural ingredients such as soy and licorice excellent choices in the treatment of disorders such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma. For daily skin care, ingredients such as oatmeal and feverfew are good choices for gentle cleansing and moisturizing of dry, sensitive, or ashy skin. Sun protection is an increasing concern due to rising rates of melanoma. Several botanical products are useful in augmenting photoprotection with conventional sunscreens.
美国人口结构的变化表明，皮肤科医生将治疗越来越多的有色人种个体。早期关于皮肤解剖学和生理学的研究大多在白人人群中进行。然而，新的研究正在阐明有色人种皮肤和白人皮肤在皮肤屏障、色素沉着和敏感性方面的异同。其中两个最重要的问题是皮肤美白和提亮。由于色素沉着较深的皮肤更容易因皮肤刺激或创伤而出现色素异常，用于有色人种皮肤的产品通常应该温和。患者对天然疗法的兴趣日益增加，与此同时，皮肤科也在研究天然成分的使用。这些产品中的许多相对温和，再加上出色的功效，使得大豆和甘草等天然成分成为治疗炎症后色素沉着（PIH）和黄褐斑等疾病的绝佳选择。对于日常皮肤护理，燕麦片和小白菊等成分是干性、敏感性或暗沉皮肤温和清洁和保湿的不错选择。由于黑色素瘤发病率上升，防晒问题日益受到关注。几种植物性产品有助于增强传统防晒霜的光保护作用。
