Rodway George W
Center for Sleep and Respiratory Neurobiology, University of Pennsylvania Schools of Medicine and Nursing, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19104-6096, USA.
High Alt Med Biol. 2007 Spring;8(1):68-76. doi: 10.1089/ham.2006.1034.
Alpinist and scientist George Ingle Finch was invited on the 1921 British Mount Everest Reconnaissance, but events conspired to keep him away from Everest until the 1922 British expedition to the mountain. Very little is known in the English-speaking world about the 1925 German language book Der Kampf um den Everest, written by Finch and covering the Everest attempts of the 1920s, as it was never published in English. Additionally, very little has been published from Finch's personal diaries of the 1922 Everest climb. The object of this work is to utilize translated sections of Der Kampf um den Everest and passages from Finch's 1922 Everest diaries to create some sense of George Finch's personal perspective of the 1922 Everest attempt. This historic climb was the first mountaineering expedition to breach the 8000-m barrier when two separate parties, one climbing with supplementary oxygen and the other without, established new terrestrial altitude records.
登山家兼科学家乔治·英格尔·芬奇受邀参加1921年英国珠穆朗玛峰勘察活动,但种种事情使他无法前往珠峰,直到1922年英国珠峰探险队成行。在英语世界,人们对芬奇1925年所著的德语书籍《珠峰之战》知之甚少,该书讲述了20世纪20年代的珠峰攀登尝试,因为它从未被翻译成英文出版。此外,芬奇关于1922年珠峰攀登的个人日记也很少有内容被发表。这项工作的目的是利用《珠峰之战》的翻译章节以及芬奇1922年珠峰日记中的段落,来展现乔治·芬奇对1922年珠峰攀登尝试的个人视角。这次具有历史意义的攀登是首次突破8000米屏障的登山探险活动,当时两个不同的队伍,一支使用辅助氧气攀登,另一支没有,都创造了新的陆地海拔记录。