Boriwanwattanarak P, Ingkaninan K, Khorana N, Viyoch J
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Jun;30(3):205-18. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00437.x.
In this study, we developed the hydrogel patch containing curcuminoids for application in cosmetic purpose. The powder of curcuminoids extracted from rhizome of Curcuma longa Linn. was first formulated into o/w microemulsions before incorporating into the polymer solution. The polymer solutions consisted of chitosan derived from various sources or the blended chitosan starch. We found that chitosan from squid pen gave the patch with highest strength and flexibility. After incorporation of curcuminoids microemulsion into the polymer solution of squid chitosan in ratio of 1 : 1 by weight, values of tensile strength and per cent elongation at break of the obtained patch decreased (from 4.55 +/- 0.41 N mm(-2) to 2.26 +/- 0.01 N mm(-2) for tensile strength and from 40.27 +/- 1.46% to 29.65 +/- 2.77% for elongation at break). The DSC thermogram of the squid patch containing curcuminoids implied non-crystalline structure of polymeric network, corresponding to porous characteristics of the patch surface. The results showed that the curcumin content remained at a concentration of 96% and 40% of the initial content after being kept at 4 degrees C and room temperature, respectively. When the patch was kept at 50 degrees C, the remaining curcumin could not be detected. According to vertical diffusion cell method, we found a rapid rate of curcumin release from the patch. The curcumin release pattern, which fitted well to the Higuchi's model, exhibited two distinct phases: the rapid phase (0-15 min), where the release rate of the curcumin averaged 0.74 microg min(-1) mm(-2), and the slow phase (15-120 min), where the release rate averaged 0.13 microg min(-1) mm(-2). Any sign of skin irritation was not observed in volunteers after single application of the curcuminoids patch in the under-eye area for 30 min. This finding indicates mildness to skin of the developed patch.
在本研究中，我们开发了一种含姜黄素类化合物的水凝胶贴片，用于化妆品用途。从姜黄根茎中提取的姜黄素类化合物粉末首先被制成油包水型微乳液，然后再加入聚合物溶液中。聚合物溶液由来自不同来源的壳聚糖或壳聚糖与淀粉的混合物组成。我们发现，来自鱿鱼骨的壳聚糖能使贴片具有最高的强度和柔韧性。当按重量比1:1将姜黄素类微乳液加入鱿鱼壳聚糖聚合物溶液中后，所得贴片的拉伸强度和断裂伸长率值均下降（拉伸强度从4.55±0.41 N mm⁻²降至2.26±0.01 N mm⁻²，断裂伸长率从40.27±1.46%降至29.65±2.77%）。含姜黄素类化合物的鱿鱼贴片的DSC热重曲线表明聚合物网络为非晶态结构，这与贴片表面的多孔特性相对应。结果表明，姜黄素含量在4℃和室温下分别保持在初始含量的96%和40%。当贴片保存在50℃时，未检测到剩余的姜黄素。根据垂直扩散池法，我们发现姜黄素从贴片中的释放速率很快。姜黄素的释放模式与Higuchi模型拟合良好，呈现出两个不同的阶段：快速阶段（0 - 15分钟），姜黄素的释放速率平均为0.74 μg min⁻¹ mm⁻²；缓慢阶段（15 - 120分钟），释放速率平均为0.13 μg min⁻¹ mm⁻²。在志愿者的眼周区域单次使用姜黄素类贴片30分钟后，未观察到任何皮肤刺激迹象。这一发现表明所开发的贴片对皮肤具有温和性。
